There is no other. There is only us.

21 years ago, more than one million Rwandans were killed in the Genocide against the Tutsi. This week, the country began 100 days of mourning.

I watched a man who led the fight to stop the genocide comfort a nation with his words. I watched a survivor who lost his family stand tall and proud in front of his country's leaders. And I held the hand of a friend as they cried for their loved ones. As the rain poured down, I saw once again the incredible strength of the survivors of the genocide.

Genocide might seem abstract, but we all have the responsibility to stand against discrimination and injustice, wherever we find it. There is no other. There is only us.

‪#‎Kwibuka21‬ - Remember, Unite, Renew.

My brave and dignified sister

Guest Post by Nelson Gashagaza

April 7, 2015. It is a clear and calm morning. Few are the motos or cars, fewer are the people on the street.

It reminded me of April 7, 1994 in Kimihurura - the strange absence of people in the street. That day, even at home they refused to let us kids go outside to play.

We cooked inside the house and we sat, listening quietly to the radio for fear to call attention to ourselves. Little did my grandparents know that the list of Tutsi to be killed had already been drawn up.

Suddenly, in the afternoon, a group of people with machetes, clubs, knives and small guns kicked down the gate of our compound, chanting loudly and violently.

Inside the house we were caught by surprise. The first reaction of our parents was to hide us children.

But where to hide when a house is surrounded by people who want blood at any cost?

We went under the bed - as many as could fit.

A few minutes later the doors of the house were broken. I can feel even today the desperation and fear.

Under the bed, we squeezed together, with the hope that maybe ‘they will not see us’. But in vain.

They entered the room. Fear and terror took over us. We knew nothing was left for us. Hope was taken and death knocked.

Two Interahamwe militia looked at my sister and said, "reka duhere kuri uyu turebe nimba ubwiza biratana bumukiza" - let’s start with this one and see if her fancy beauty can save her. She was slaughtered with a machete.

I was the little one in that room. Everyone else had made sure that I got the best place. I mean, where they could at least try to protect me. But at that moment, they couldn’t. Death had visited us and only a prayer was on the agenda, and acceptance.

At the end of the slaughter, I had blood all over me. They thought I was already dead. For them, in that moment after spilling blood, they were taken over by their madness and didn't notice that I was still alive. They rushed out for another kill.

My sister, with her last breath, crawled towards me, trying to say something. She died with her hand on my arm.

How brave that even in her last moment she wanted me safe.

April 7, 2015. We are three people in the street. April 7, 1994. We were three people to survive in a house that once had 18 living souls. The only difference is that yesterday I was going to my office to work - something I have been doing for years. During the commemoration week, I work hard as my way to escape my memory.

For years, I have tried to act tough.

Yesterday I cried as I listened to President Kagame's speech. When he said that remembering is an obligation and that no one reminds us to do it, I knew that I have been doing it wrong. Every year, I have been trying to shut down my feelings, my memories.

Today, I feel tired, very tired, as I passed my night travelling through memories.

April 7, 1994, I was just a kid - five years old. Twenty-one years later, I’m an adult with a job (I hope I don't get fired as I’m writing this post in my room). My job is preserving the memory of the genocide and creating tools to share what happened here.

I hope that I do my work right. Because my sister deserves that last word she never had a chance to say.

She deserves the chance to live in our memories, dignified and brave. The same way she died twenty-one years ago.

#Kwibuka21. 

Gisenyi – Rwanda’s lakeside paradise

Nestled in Rwanda’s north is one of the country’s most popular tourist destinations. It is home to spectacular scenery, some of the best hotels in the country and Lake Kivu – the main attraction of this idyllic lakeside resort town that tens of thousands of visitors flock to every year. If you’re visiting Rwanda and want to explore the country’s beauty or simply want to take a relaxed weekend out of Kigali, Gisenyi is the place for you.

Located 160kms or three hours drive from Kigali, the journey to Gisenyi is an easy one that takes you along a winding road past rolling hills, corn fields and the famous road stop Urwibutso Enterprises. Whether you’re travelling by public bus or with your own car, it’s worth taking a break there. Sample some of the best brochettes in Rwanda, pick up Mandazi (local take on the donut) and even strawberry juice made from locally grown produce.

The road to Gisenyi also takes you past Musanze – the gateway to the gorillas. As the regional centre of Rwanda’s Northern Province, Musanze is a thriving hub of economic activity. The town is the perfect place to grab a bite to eat before continuing to Gisenyi. Volcana Lounge, located on the main road, has spectacular views out to the Volcanoes National Park and the best pizza in town.

After driving for one hour from Musanze, the glistening Lake Kivu reveals itself. At 2,700 square kilometres, the huge body of water certainly earns its place among Africa’s Great Lakes. Driving down into Gisenyi you will notice some of the more than 150 hotels and restaurants dotted along the lakeshore, from budget motels to luxury resorts. If you’re after an upmarket experience, look no further than the Serena Kivu. The hotel has its own private beach, a panoramic restaurant, indoor and beachside bars, a swimming pool and the ‘Maisha' Health Centre where you can indulge in spa treatments, boating, swimming, tennis, fishing, hiking and trekking. For those after something a little less extravagant but just as stylish, the Gorillas Lake Kivu is for you. This hotel has lake views and a terrific restaurant called Ubwato – the name given to the canoes used by local fisherman. Volleyball and badminton are also on offer for the active guest.

If you’re keen to stay away from the hustle and bustle of Gisenyi, a number of boutique resorts located a short drive from town will have you relaxed from the moment you arrive. Paradise Malahide and Inzu Lodge are two of the best small hotels in Gisenyi and offer excellent accommodation at a reasonable price.

Paradise Malahide is a favourite for Kigali residents wanting to take a weekend away to recharge, soak up some sun or indulge in the best Isambaza in Gisenyi. These small fish are caught by fishermen who go out every other evening and spend the night on the lake. If you’re by the shore at dusk, be sure to listen out for the fishermen singing. When the sun goes down, their lamps light up the lake like small fires dotted on the horizon. A twin room including breakfast at Paradise Malahide costs 45,000 francs (US $65).

Paradise Malahide on the shores of Lake Kivu

Another excellent option is Inzu Lodge. On offer is double and twin single tented accommodation for 25,000 francs per night (US $40). Alternatively, bringing your own tent will set you back 12,000 francs (US $20). The lodge is located on the hillside above the shore and has spectacular views all the way out to eastern Congo. Inzu Lodge also returns a percentage of their profits back to the local community.

Inzu Lodge (Photo: Marie-Noëlle DeVito)

A trip to Gisenyi would be incomplete without visiting Tam Tam Beach. Located on the road to the Bralirwa brewery, the beach hosts music parties and a number of boating activities. You can canoe, take a sail boat out or enjoy a ride on a Jet Ski. Prices range from 3,000-6,000 francs (US $5-10). Once you’ve exhausted yourself, the Tam Tam bar is a popular spot to relax for locals and tourists alike. For those more interested in seeing the lake from afar, a recently opened eco-walk provides unrivalled views of Gisenyi and neighbouring Goma – all the way out to the active Nyiragongo volcano in the DR Congo. The walk takes you along the side of the rehabilitated Mt Rubavu. Simply go to the main church in town where the walk starts, pay a small fee and enjoy this self guided stroll. Be on the lookout for local birds and wildlife.

After seeing the town from above, the main market is the perfect place to get to know Gisenyi, try local produce or have your own piece of clothing made. Seamstresses and tailors there still use old style Singer sewing machines. A custom made dress will set you back around 12,000 francs (US $20). If you’re not afraid to explore, a little known secret in Gisenyi is the natural hot springs dotted along the edge of Lake Kivu. Take the road past the brewery and follow it down to the lakeside. All locals known where they are so simply ask for the Amashasa.

After a busy few days exploring Gisenyi, it’s time to head back to Kigali. On your way back drop in to the famous KIAKA. This artisan cooperative produces some of the finest handicrafts and artwork in Rwanda and should not be missed. Located fifteen minutes out of Gisenyi, KIAKA sells handmade bowls, traditional Agaseke (peace baskets), hardware supplies and much more. Prices range from US $1 to $30.

Gisenyi is your perfect holiday destination. With numerous hotels offering high quality accommodation, world class restaurants and dozens of fun activities for the whole family, add this historical lakeside paradise to your itinerary when you next visit Rwanda.

Rwanda's rejuvenating rainforest

It doesn’t take you long to realise you’re somewhere special. As soon as you cross into Nyungwe National Park you’re transported into another world. A world where mountains merge with mist rising up from valleys, where families of monkeys swing from tree to tree and where the air is so clean you wish you could bottle it up and take it home. Nyungwe is without question one of the most unique places on the continent.

The park is the largest middle altitude rainforest in Africa at 1,019 square kilometres and with 13 primate species, 275 bird species and over 240 tree species including the famed Igishigishigi (tree fern), boasts one of the highest levels of biodiversity anywhere in the world. Only in Nyungwe can black and white Colobus monkeys can be observed in families of up to 400, ten times the number found elsewhere.

Exploring the beauty of the rainforest is easy with over 130 kilometres of walking trails that cater to all levels of fitness and give visitors the chance to get up close with the incredible animal life in the park. Walk with chimpanzees, spot white bearded mountain monkeys and search for bird life of unimaginable beauty. If you’re lucky, you may see the Great Blue Turaco jumping and flying from tree to tree high in the canopy or the elusive Owl-faced monkey.

One of the most popular trails is the Canopy Walk, taking hikers along the Igishigishigi track to a series of bridges suspended up to 70 metres above the rainforest floor. After a quick briefing from your guide at the Uwinka Visitor Centre, you set off into the forest. Be sure to have your camera ready for blue and mountain monkeys jumping about and squirrels darting from one branch to another. Three canopy bridges rise out of the forest, suspended from tall steel structures that could easily be mistaken for modern art. Your guide will reassure you that the 160 metre walk could be done by one hundred elephants, but the first few steps are always tentative. Ten metres in and your confidence will return. Take a deep breath, look around and marvel at the beauty of the rainforest canopy. You’ll hear a small creek below, see birds flying across the horizon and soon realise you have the best seat in the house to view the spectacle that is Nyungwe. This 2.1km round trip is rated as ‘Easy’ and is suitable for visitors of all ages.

Making our way across the famous canopy walk - 70 metres above the forest floor

Visitors wanting a slightly longer trek can set out from the Gisakura Tourist Information Centre and walk the Isumo trail to Nyungwe’s largest waterfall, Kamiranzovu. Meaning elephant swallower, the 17 meter fall takes its name from the nearby swamp where elephants would often get stuck. From a distance you can hear the faint roar, but when you get closer there’s no mistaking its power. You will be in awe of the beauty of the place, with spectacular wild flowers dotted along the path, frogs jumping across rocks and fine mist rising high into the valley past bat caves and hanging foliage. It’s a special place and you won’t find anywhere else like it. Just don’t be afraid to get a little wet from the waterfall’s powerful spray.

The Kamiranzovu waterfall is mother nature at her most powerful

For an incredible primate viewing experience, a visit to Cyamudongo forest and its large family of chimpanzees is a must. Because the chimps wake up for breakfast at around 4am, willing adventurers will also need to be out of bed early. Don’t forget your binoculars as the chimps like to climb high in the canopy and the Mona monkeys living alongside them can be shy. Proper hiking boots and pants and long sleeves are recommended as you might find yourself off the beaten track to find the best viewing position. The forest is located about an hour from Gisakura.

All walks in Nyungwe National Park are accompanied by knowledgeable guides who will tell you about the numerous plants along the track and help spot animals and birdlife. Walks must be pre-booked at a Tourist Information Centre. The closest centre to Nyungwe is located in Gisakura about ten minutes from the park entrance.

After returning from a long day of exploring, there’s nothing quite like sitting by the fire and watching the sun set over the rainforest as monkeys swing past and colourful birds fly overhead. If you’re after just that, Nyungwe Forest Lodge is the perfect place for you. Connect with nature, quieten the soul and rejuvenate at this five-star eco-resort nestled at the edge of the Nyungwe National Park. The multi-award winning lodge is Green Leaf accredited and sustainability and conservation are clear priorities. Its architecture will astound and have you relaxed the moment you walk in the door.

Nyungwe Forest Lodge is set in a working tea plantation on the edge of the rain forest

 

Your host will provide first class care throughout your stay, beginning with an explanation of all the lodge has to offer, from relaxing swims in the infinity pool to mountain biking through the tea plantation. For those wanting to take things a little slower and treat themselves or a loved one, the lodge’s African Spa provides the chance to luxuriate with a full range of treatments including massage, facial, pedicure and manicure. A gift shop has exquisite local handicrafts as well as books detailing the country’s history and culture. For those wanting to sample the local brew, a traditional tea tasting ceremony can be arranged with your host.

When you take the path down to your villa, the smell of the fresh rainforest air and tea combine in a feast for the senses. Rooms are expertly appointed with a blend of modern and traditional styling, creating your own little paradise you won’t want to leave. Relax on the balcony and watch monkeys swing by or indulge in a forest view bath. All meals are included in your stay and they will not disappoint. Fresh local produce joins with flavours from across the continent to create mouth-watering dishes. For any special requests, simply speak to the chef who can create a personalised delicacy for you. Dine by the fireplace or on the balcony. Just be sure to watch out for Colobus monkeys who like to make lunchtime visits to the edge of the forest. Whether for one night or many, the lodge will leave any discerning traveller wanting to return, again and again.

A spectacular infinity pool is the perfect place to relax

The beauty of the lodge is only rivalled by the rainforest itself and the animals that call it home. A visit to Nyungwe National Park is a must for your next trip to the land of a thousand hills. The park is located in Rwanda’s south west and RwandAir flies daily from Kigali to the nearby Kamembe Airport. Transfers from the airport to Nyungwe Forest Lodge can be arranged through local tour operators. Alternatively, the trip by car from Kigali takes approximately five hours. This is a good option for those wanting to visit the historical towns of Nyanza and Butare which host the Ancient History Museum and National Museum of Rwanda.

For more information about the lodge, visit www.nyungweforestlodge.com.

5 lessons the world can learn from Rwanda's national Q&A forum

Now in its twelfth year, Rwanda's national dialogue council is one of the highlights of the civic calendar. The event brings together leaders from a broad cross-section of society including government, civil society, the private sector and international bodies. The idea is simple - get everyone with major decision making power in a room together and give the public the chance to ask them whatever they want. Questions range from highly personal ones about social security benefits to national fiscal policy to the artificial insemination of pigs. It seems nothing is off limits.

A man asks a question at the 2012 dialogue council

The two day question and answer session is chaired by Rwanda's president, Paul Kagame, who had this to say in his opening speech at last year's event:

"This dialogue is not as peaceful as one might think; having this dialogue is like launching a war and calling people to join in. It’s a war to fight against poverty, diseases, hunger; a war for development. It’s not a simple thing."

Hardly the language you would expect to hear about an event with the stated purpose of discussing 'national unity'. But this forthright approach is what makes Umushyikirano (the local name meaning 'to negotiate') such a good example of democracy in action. At last year's event I saw ministers being grilled by ordinary Rwandans who had their calls piped over the parliament speakers. I saw the President calling on members of the private sector to explain why their businesses weren't supporting local farmers and the head of the country's electricity provider being told to remove the monthly tariff on home meters (which has since been done).

With this year's dialogue beginning today I thought it timely to write about five lessons the world can learn from Umushyikirano:

1. Create a space for open and honest conversations between leaders and citizens

Rwanda's dialogue council gives ordinary citizens the chance to ask their leaders questions and hold them accountable. At last year's event a man called in and asked the President why the road he promised hadn't yet been built. In another case, a farmer sent a text asking why the local milk processing plant wouldn't purchase his product for a decent price. The head of the country's largest dairy company and the minister for agriculture were forced to stand up and explain.

It might not be comfortable for those on the receiving end of the questions, but it's a genuine way for Rwandans to keep their leaders in check and hold them to their word. 

2. Make it easy for citizens to ask their leaders questions

In 2012 over 11,000 questions and comments were received at the event. That amounts to about 1000 questions an hour. Giving citizens the chance to contribute via phone, SMS and social media like Twitter means that a much broader cross section of the community can be involved. 

While not all questions are answered on the day, records of what was asked are kept and reviewed after the event. 

3. Bring all the decision makers together and there's nowhere to hide

When an entire country's leadership are in the same room together, everyone is responsible for solving the problem. Leaders aren't able to shift blame or put off dealing with the problem. They must confront it head on and fix it then and there or say exactly how they're going to do so and when.  

4. Make the Prime Minister responsible for implementing the decisions taken

One of the first items on the agenda is a report from the Prime Minister about the extent to which the previous year's decisions were implemented. The PM must detail the completion rate of each resolution and if some haven't been finished, explain why. This creates the perfect incentive for getting things done because there's no fun in telling your boss you haven't done your homework, especially in front of the whole country. 

5. Broadcast Q&A events live to the public

Rwanda's national dialogue is broadcast on radio (Rwandan's media of choice), TV, online streaming and through social networking sites like Twitter and Facebook. This gives Rwandans from all walks of life the chance to be part of the event. From Cyangugu to Chang Mai, Rwandans at home and abroad can follow the proceedings of Umushyikirano live.

By demonstrating that the country values fierce conversations, Rwanda is creating the space for debate, new ideas and progress based on what citizens want. And that's something all nations can aspire to. 

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You can watch the event live at www.umushyikirano.gov.rw. If you'd like to learn more, the Rwandapedia website has lots of great information and historical records about Umushyikirano. 

Kigali's Thrilling New Arts Space

Arriving at Inema Arts Centre, I encountered twenty young Rwandans learning the moves to Michael Jackson’s ‘Thriller’. Clearly this was no ordinary art gallery. The boys and girls were rehearsing an upcoming concert and had mastered the first two verses and chorus. In the soft light of Kigali’s setting sun, it was an unexpected sight.

Inema Arts Centre is the passion and purpose of two brothers, leading contemporary artists Emmanuel Nkuranga and Innocent Nkurunziza. Founded in 2012, Inema is a place of contagious positivity. While the focus is on providing a space for resident artists to share and develop their skills, Inema, meaning gift in Kinyarwanda, is much more. Emmanuel describes it as a place where everyone can share their creativity and passion. And today, according to the self-trained artist, a virtuous cycle of giving, loving and sharing has taken hold. From the moment you step inside the gallery space, there is no denying there’s something special at work.

Leading contemporary artists, Emmanuel Nkuranga and Innocent Nkurunziza

Emmanuel and his brother Innocent grew up in Uganda before their parents moved the family back to Rwanda in 1997. At just 11 years of age, Innocent was already a passionate artist and used crayons and brushes to recreate the world around him, often burning the crayons to make paint. Though his school never offered art classes, Innocent’s mother saw his potential and today he credits her with giving him the courage to pursue his passion. Four years later Innocent’s talent was given the chance to truly shine when London based artist George Hicks came to Rwanda to share his skills with budding artists. After only one month, 79 of the 80 students in the workshop had quit. Only Innocent remained. It wasn’t hard for Hicks to predict that the 15 year old would go on to achieve international acclaim.

For Emmanuel, passion for paint came a little later. As a keen sportsman, he was more likely to have a basketball than a paintbrush in his hands. But after the sudden death of their mother, Emmanuel took to painting as a kind of therapy and his talent didn’t go unnoticed for long. Of finding the power of art he says, “I didn’t know that art could heal me, that it could be an aspiration and that I could share my experiences, talent and resources to help others realise the amazing hidden talents they might have”. And that’s exactly what Emmanuel is doing today.

Innocent Nkurunziza at work in the Inema studio

Both brothers draw on the memory of their mother as inspiration for their art and their commitment to the centre. For Innocent, a promise made to paint her portrait spurred him to take on painting full time. For Emmanuel, the care and love his mother showed to children in their community, and at the school she founded with her husband, inspired him to set up a number of programs to help young people realise their potential. According to Emmanuel, she made everyone feel special and unique and he wants to do the same. Today Emmanuel’s dream of educating young people, showing them a brighter future and training them to be professional artists has become a reality.

One of just many at centre, Art with a Mission is a program run by Emmanuel and his team to train young Rwandans with limited resources on how to tap into their artistic skills. Now in its third year, artworks produced by the students are on display and sold at the Inema gallery to cover school fees and living costs. Plans are underway to expand the artistic medium to photography and theatre. The centre also hosts a workshop for local women who craft exquisite handicrafts and jewellery. Known as Nziza Artworks and founded by Innocent in 2010, the 16 women involved are creating a bright future for themselves and their families through first class art. Inema is also helping to keep Rwandan culture alive through its dance and drum troupe. Young people are trained to become ‘Intore’, learning the rich history of the famous performance style. The troupe travels the country with income generated helping to pay the performers’ school fees.

Emmanuel Nkuranga with students from Art with a Mission

Both brothers credit Rwanda’s culture and stunning landscape for inspiring their work. For Innocent, “the dynamic rhythm of nature, people, colours and texture are the basis from which my art is derived” while the country’s Akagera National Park is “where you see the real colour of the world”. For Emmanuel, “anything is art. It’s just how you interpret it - nature, people, movement - everything. Rwanda and its great weather put me to work”.

The two brothers and ten resident artists are winning over art lovers and critics at home and abroad. Exhibitions across the United States including in New York, Washington and San Francisco as well as in London, Germany, Sweden and Belgium have wowed crowds, and with good reason. The artwork produced at Inema is unique, intriguing and beautiful, capturing the spirit of Rwanda in a way that no words on a page or image on Facebook ever could. The centre hosts local and international exhibitions, the latest by US artist Renee Balfour, and a showcase of Inema artists is currently touring Kigali hotspots.

What strikes you as you soak in the artwork, from stunning portraits and painted motorbikes to metal sculptures and carved crocodiles, is that they’re clearly more than just colours on a canvas. The art represents a way of being and of being with others. It’s a powerful expression of how the world could be – one joined together in creativity, love and beauty.

Stunning artwork on display at Inema

Emmanuel and Innocent told me that their dream was simple - to find artists and work together. But what the brothers have built is something far greater. Inema is a gift to Rwanda and to art lovers the world over. So next time you’re in Kigali, head down to Inema Arts Centre in Kacyiru and see for yourself what’s got the art world talking, and maybe even a performance of Thriller. 

To learn more and be part of Kigali’s positive energy art scene, visit www.inemaartcentre.com or follow the centre on Twitter at @InemaArts.

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This piece originally appeared in the December - February edition of RwandAir's Inzozi magazine. Visit the Inzozi website or follow @Inzozi_rw for more stories. 

6 Questions About Rwanda's Election You Were Too Embarrassed To Ask

Rwanda goes to the polls today to elect new parliamentary representatives. Having just watched my own country elect a new parliament, I realised there was a lot I didn't know about how it works here in Rwanda. Here are some of the questions that, like me, you might have been too embarrassed to ask. 

Rwandans go to the polls today (Photo Credit: Kigali Wire)

1. How many Rwandans will vote in this election and what are they voting for?

According to the National Electoral Commission, 5,953,531 people are registered to vote. While voting is not compulsory in Rwanda a high turn-out is expected. A staggering 98.5% of eligible Rwandans voted at the last parliamentary elections in 2008. Rwandans are voting to elect 80 members to the Chamber of Deputies, the lower house of the country's parliament. The elections will be overseen by 1,236 observers and 72,000 polling officers.

2. Why does voting take place over three days?

Rwanda's elections take place from 16-18 September because not all members are elected in the same way. Thanks to rules designed to ensure diversity, there are four different ways for the 80 members in the Chamber of Deputies to be elected:

• 53 members are elected by all Rwandans in a general vote

• 24 are female members and elected by women committee and council members

• Two members are elected by National Youth Councils from across the country

• One member is elected by representatives from the National Council of People with Disabilities 

The general election of 53 members takes place today, September 16 , while the 24 female members will be elected tomorrow, September 17. The election of the youth and disability representatives will be done on September 18.

3. How many candidates are competing in the election?

There are 410 candidates vying for the 80 seats available in the Chamber of Deputies. 

4. What does the Chamber of Deputies do? 

The Chamber of Deputies has three main functions. They are:

1. To represent Rwandans
2. To pass legislation 
3. To scrutinize executive action

The chamber carries out these responsibilities through plenary sessions, committee meetings and by calling government representatives (including the Prime Minister and Cabinet Ministers) to give briefings on matters of concern. The chamber also analyses reports submitted by government institutions. The first thirty minutes of each parliamentary sitting day is set aside to hear complaints from Rwandans.

5. How many political parties are there in Rwanda and do they all have candidates running for parliament?

There are 11 political parties in Rwanda. They are:

1. Centrist Democratic Party (PDC)
2. Democratic Green Party of Rwanda (DGPR) 
3. Democratic Union of the People of Rwanda (UDPR) 
4. Ideal Democratic Party (PDI) 
5. Liberal Party (PL) 
6. Party for Progress and Concord (PPC)
7. Party for Solidarity and Progress (PSP) 
8. PS-Imberakuli 
9. Rwanda Patriotic Front (RPF-Inkotanyi) 
10. Rwanda Socialist Party (PSR) 
11. Social Democratic Party (PSD) 

The Democratic Green Party of Rwanda was registered in August 2013 but did not field candidates for the election. The previous parliament was controlled by a coalition led by the Rwanda Patriotic Front. For these elections that coalition is made up of the RPF, PDI, PPC, PSR and the PDC.

6. Who organises Rwanda's elections? 

The National Electoral Commission is responsible for organising the elections, including announcing candidates, voter registration, staffing polling stations and announcing election results, which by law they must do no later than September 25. This fact sheet from the commission has a lot of great information if you're like me and interested in learning more. 

Rwanda's Best Kept Secrets

The Musanze Caves are a spectacular sight

My favourite travel experiences involve discovering something new, especially when I’m among the first to do so. That’s why two recently opened attractions in Rwanda have quickly become my favourites. These hidden gems are enchanting, peaceful, spectacular and refreshing. The Musanze Caves and the Ruzizi Tented Lodge get my vote for Rwanda’s best kept secrets.

A short drive from Musanze, Rwanda’s gateway to the gorillas, I discovered caves formed millions of years ago in volcanic eruptions once commonplace. Stunning and mystical, the Musanze Caves are one of the country’s newest tourist destinations. There are 32 caves underneath the foothills of the Volcanoes National Park. Our guide Patience took us to one 15 minutes from the center of town.

Cave guide Patience

The first thing that strikes you is the size. Stepping into the cave felt like entering a cathedral. We learnt that the caves were once used by Rwandan kings as an Ikigega (store) for food and other supplies during times of war. And after putting on the jackets, boots and helmets with headlights (all provided), it became clear that the caves were not only rich in history, but also natural beauty.

You are immediately enveloped by a dense silence broken only by footsteps and drops of water hitting the rock floor below. But we were not alone. A glimpse high above revealed hundreds of bats hanging precariously from stunning rock formations. Perhaps startled by our presence, the sound of flapping wings echoed through the cave. It reminded me of a scene from the latest Batman movie and I half expected the Batmobile to show up with Christian Bale at the wheel. The cave we visited was easy to navigate with a well constructed path leading you up and over, around and down, and through to the other side.

I emerged in complete awe of the cave only to be blown away again. High above the exit the volcanic eruption has left a ring of rocks that vines, trees and flowers cling to, creating a veil through which you emerge from the darkness. It’s a sight too beautiful and magical to do justice with words. The Musanze Caves are a must visit on any itinerary.

Gilbert Rwabigwi and I after completing the journey

On the opposite side of the country, I encountered another well kept secret - the Ruzizi Tented Lodge at Akagera National Park. Opened just months ago, the lodge blends world class eco-tourism with first class luxury. Accommodating a maximum of 14 guests and hidden deep within the park, Ruzizi is my favourite weekend getaway in Rwanda.

Just two and a half hours drive from Kigali along well sign posted roads, and after paying a modest entrance fee at the visitor centre, we made our way down to the lodge. Set on the shores of Lake Ihema, Rwanda’s second largest, the lodge fits effortlessly into the natural environment (so much so that a tree goes through the reception and out via the ceiling).

From the moment we arrived I knew we were in for something special. Nothing says adventure quite like an electrified fence to keep the elephants out. Our host briefed us on a bad-tempered but well loved elephant named Mutware (meaning chief) who likes to check in at the lodge every now and then. We made our way to the open deck overlooking the lake for welcome drinks from where we spotted crocodiles, eagles catching fish and other magnificent bird life. Hippos and monkeys are also a common sight.

Monkeys relaxing on the lodge board walk

The design of the lodge is simple yet stunning. A central building comprises a dining room and a well stocked bar. Each luxury tent stands alone, accessible only via a boardwalk to minimise environmental impact and allow animals to reach the lake unhindered. The placement of each tent makes you feel like you are in the heart of the jungle. Nothing beats lying in bed with a good book as monkeys swing from tree to tree outside your window.

After dinner was announced, guests gathered at the large communal table and introductions between strangers soon became laughter among friends. For those unafraid of the dark, a night tour of the park is possible. But after seeing giraffe, zebra, baboon, impala, buffalo and a beautiful sampling of the 500 bird species who make the park home, I was happy to have waited until morning. Only Mutware the elephant remained elusive.

One of 60 majestic giraffe who call Akagera home. 

The Musanze Caves and the Ruzizi Tented Lodge are the new stars of Rwanda’s tourist offering. It’s what makes travel worthwhile - adventure, history, indulgence, beauty and relaxation. If I were you, I’d book a room at the lodge and a tour of the caves yesterday - before everyone else finds out just how special they are.

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This piece originally appeared in the September-November edition of RwandAir's Inzozi magazine. Visit their website to read more stories.

Tours of the Musanze caves last between 30 minutes and four hours. To find out more, contact Jean Aime Sibomana from the Rwanda Development Board at jeanaime.sibomana@rdb.rw or on +250 0788 506 216.

Ruzizi Tented Lodge is located in the Akagera National Park. Bookings can be made by calling +250 787 113 300 or by email at ruzizi@african-parks.org. You can visit the lodge’s website at www.ruzizilodge.com.

Hippos are a common sight at the Ruzizi Lodge

A rare sighting of the shy Roan Antelope

19 Years

April 7 marks 19 years since the Genocide against the Tutsi in Rwanda. During a period of 100 days more than one million women, children and men were slaughtered in the world's most brutal and efficient killing spree. 

Half a century of ethnic division, first propagated by European colonisers, saw Rwanda bereft of respect for life and human dignity. The country was torn apart from its core by the events of 1994, leaving virtually every social and political institution destroyed. 

To this day, many Rwandans have not been able to bury their loved ones and some who planned and carried out the genocide still walk freely on the streets of nations like France.

I've lived in Rwanda for just over a year now and I've seen the incredible strength and resilience of my friends and colleagues, many of whom lost brothers, sisters, mothers and fathers during the genocide. I don't know how they do it, and my respect for them cannot be measured, let alone described in words.

Rwanda today stands out as a development success story. Child mortality rates are approaching the global mean, primary and secondary education is virtually universal, more than 90% of people have health insurance and 56% of the country's parliamentarians are women (the highest in the world).

By no means is Rwanda perfect and much progress is still needed, but what I've witnessed is a sense of national unity that would have seemed beyond impossible in the days and months after the genocide. It's a unity not based on the 'us and them' paradigm, but on the desire to build a nation together - to reclaim the hope, opportunity, dignity and respect for life that was lost with each and every murder in 1994.

The genocide didn't affect me or my family and it probably didn't affect yours either, but it is our collective responsibility to make sure that the events of 1994 never happen anywhere ever again. Just as Rwandans stand together to mourn those that were lost, we too must stand together to fight racism, bigotry, homophobia, xenophobia and all forms of discrimination. We must stand against all those who wish to divide us.

Rwanda has taught me that a people united are capable of anything. And that gives me great hope for the future.

A Streetcar Named Dignity

Agaciro (udu-) /agacîiro/ 1. dignity, self-respect 

In the popular play A Streetcar Named Desire, Blanche DuBois boards a tram to escape her past. She has lost the family home, been fired from her job and tries desperately to conceal her alcohol addiction. Words like dignity and self-respect are not often used to describe the character of Blanche DuBois.

The tram Blanche rode takes its name from the street along which it ran. But this post isn't about a journey through the Bywater district in New Orleans. It's about a bus that runs from Musanze to Kigali. 

Two weeks ago I travelled from Rwanda's capital, Kigali, to the north east of the country. The entire stretch of road is paved, the scenery spectacular and the scale of terrace farming a feat of human perseverance. After two days of exploring Musanze, known as the Gateway to the Gorillas for the thousands of tourists who visit every year, I headed back to Kigali. I'd bought my ticket and only had to get on the correct bus. At 4:45pm, right on time, a bus pulled up. Its destination: Agaciro. 

I was a little puzzled. Having lived in Rwanda for just under a year, not once has anyone mentioned a place called Agaciro. After about 30 seconds the electronic sign above the windshield flickered. It now read Kigali. Not wanting to end up in the middle of nowhere, I asked the man directing traffic "Kuri Kigali?" "Yego" he answered. He looked down at my ticket. This bus was going to Kigali, he said, but it wasn't mine. He pointed to another bus across the parking lot and told me to get on there. 

During the ride home I realised why that bus had "Agaciro" as its destination. It hadn't meant a place or the name of a bus stop. It was referring to the direction the country has taken since 1994 and continues to strive towards today. The concept at the heart of Rwanda's rebirth: dignity and self-respect. 

The first time I came across the concept of Agaciro was while listening to a speech by Rwanda's President Paul Kagame. He said the word tries to capture the very essence of humanness. Speaking to university students at a commencement address in the United States, he said:

"Rwandans of your generation are more optimistic about their country than any before them. They are full of hope, full of pride. This is because they have grown up in a society that has restored the enduring spirit of agaciro."

In the western world, we don't often talk about the values that guide our behaviour towards each other and how we should hold ourselves. Sure, we talk of honesty and kindness, but these ideas are just that, ideas. They rarely unite a society in common purpose. In Rwanda, it's a different story. 

In 1994, Rwanda was the poorest country on the planet. More than one million Tutsi and moderate Hutu had been brutally murdered and the country's institutions almost entirely destroyed. In the late 1990s aid dependence stood at 85 percent. 

Just as there is no dignity in having to beg to survive, there is little dignity for a country to be so dependent on the goodwill of others. And it's this attitude that permeates Rwandan society today. It's been the guiding principle for Rwanda to reduce it's dependence on foreign aid, now at 41 percent. That might still seem high, but just two years ago it was at 50 percent. 

You might have read recently the some countries have suspended aid to Rwanda because of allegations that the country is backing a rebel group in the eastern Congo. When this first happened I was shocked at the reaction of some of my Rwandan friends. I had expected them to be just as appalled as I was. Instead, they said, "Good, they can keep their money. We shouldn't need it anyway. We can stand on our own two feet". 

I didn't understand it at the time, but this is exactly what Agaciro looks like in Rwandan society. My own country doesn't need aid (and doesn't get bossed around by donors), so why should theirs. This piece by Diana Mpyisi captures the sentiment well. 

In the final moments of A Streetcar Named Desire, Blanche says to the doctor who leads her away, "Whoever you are, I have always depended on the kindness of strangers."

There's still much more I have to learn about the concept of Agaciro and its role in Rwanda's rebirth, but I have no doubt that it won't be long before the country reaches its destination; not depending on the kindness of strangers and fully realising its dream of dignity and self-reliance. Just like the bus from Musanze.

Thoughts on Rwanda

This post is in response to a statement about the way Paul Kagame and Rwanda have been portrayed in the British press. 

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It's true that the Guardian and other news outlets have taken a particular interest in painting President Kagame in a certain light. The same can be said about Rwanda and Rwandans themselves. What this seems to stem from is a lack of understanding of the historical and cultural realities in Rwanda, overlaid with a healthy serving of arrogance and ignorance. 

Rwanda today is a model of development. In the last five years one million people have overcome poverty, 92% of the country has health insurance, child mortality rates decreased by 50% between 2005-2010 and now stand at 54 deaths per 1,000 live births. GDP growth has been at about 8% for ten years and the decrease in those living below the poverty line over that time indicates that the wealth is being spread more evenly than in many countries with similar figures. Transparency International ranks Rwanda better than Italy and Greece for corruption. 

Remember that in 1994 Rwanda was the poorest country on the planet. At that time there was a complete collapse in all social, political and economic structures thanks to the most brutal and efficient killing machinery the world has ever seen. Around one million people were murdered in 100 days - a figure even the Nazis could not attain. 

All of Rwanda's achievements have occurred at a time of significant population growth - around 3 million additional people in the last five years alone. Development of this kind can only be achieved if it is citizen centric. In Rwanda, there is the concept of agaciro. It roughly translates to personal dignity. And just as it was the complete lack of agaciro that facilitated the genocide, it has been its rebirth that has allowed Rwandans to once again stand tall and proud. There is no dignity in not being able to feed your family, there is no dignity in watching your child die needlessly and there is certainly no dignity in being denied the right to speak up and out against injustice. 

The notion of agaciro now so permeates society that anyone you talk to will know exactly what you mean when you say the word. Two weeks ago the President held a town hall Q&A session with about 2000 students from the country's universities. It was supposed to be an hour or two long. It ended up going for five. The questions and comments ranged from complaints about why the government hadn't yet processed recent payments of the equivalent of Youth Allowance, concerns about the way the ICC treats African countries and a request for funding for a community radio station to be re-established on the uni campus. Students expressed appreciation for the work Paul Kagame has done in rebuilding and reuniting the country since 1994 but also disappointment at the fact that the Minister of Education and other leaders in the sector didn't spend more time hearing from students about the issues they faced. The students were both complimentary and critical of the government. Somehow I doubt that any of them would have felt able to criticise the President and his government to his face if they thought they had tyrannical dictator in their midst. What was clear was the agaciro in their eyes and their keen desire for progress. 

But here is where things get interesting. I can tell this story, which to me is so representative of the leadership of Paul Kagame and the spirit of the country, but in one fell swoop someone else can say that Rwanda's progress has only been possible because of a dictatorial government and a lack of personal freedoms. It's a strange thing that we, at least in the western world, seem to agree. It's as if that idea is a puzzle piece just waiting to fit into the right spot in our minds. I've come to think that it's our preconceived ideas and stereotypes about African countries that drive this. How on earth can an African country be doing well? It must be a dictatorship they say. There must be human rights abuses. Surely something is wrong we think. It's these biases we need to overcome if we are to truly, and respectfully, engage with Rwandans, Congolese, Tanzanians and all those who have less material wealth than developed nations. 

I would be the last person to say that Rwanda is perfect. Too few people have access to electricity; I don't agree with the abortion laws, too many children are malnourished; too little focus is placed on environmental issues and it is unacceptable that ten people needlessly died in torrential flooding this week. But these are issues faced by almost every country on the planet. Cutting aid to the most effective user on the continent is no way to solve those issues, nor the problems of the Congo. 

This brings up the the allegations of Rwandan support for the M23 rebel group in the Eastern DR Congo to which some countries, including the UK, have attached their decision to suspend general budgetary support. I'm not going to attempt to cover earlier events relating to then Zaire (now Congo) because they have to do with centuries old colonial territorial decisions, the genocide, cholera outbreaks and around 30 different militia and rebel groups that operate in the eastern part of the country alone. But on the current issue a few things should be clarified. The claims made in newspapers like the Guardian and the Telegraph are taken from a report compiled by a UN Group of Experts. The group is responsible for producing reports on the situation in the Congo for the UN Security Council, and on any breach of a ban on supporting rebel groups in the Congo. The Group of Experts for the Congo only interviewed Congolese security services, military and civilians. The testimony they provided was allegations of Rwandan involvement - a sighting at a bar, boot tracks in the mud, trucks near the border. The Group of Experts spoke to Rwandan officials for 30 minutes before the draft report was leaked to the media. A comprehensive rebuttal from Rwanda was ignored. A final version of the report was leaked, this time to Reuters, the day before the UN Security Council vote for which Rwanda was on the ticket. Any reading of the situation makes it clear that there are other forces at work than fact-based report making. 

My advice to people interested in this issue is to read the Group of Experts report, and the Rwandan rebuttal, investigate the background of the members of the Group of Experts, learn about the Congolese domestic political situation and also about the failure of the UN's 1.3 billion dollar a year peacekeeping force based in Goma. If you take the time to understand a little of the political nature of the situation, you'll quickly become sceptical of the allegations against Rwanda. 

For those who agree with the aid suspensions, here are a few questions that I think are important. Which part of the Group of Experts report convinced you that with-holding aid was the right thing to do? Which part of Rwanda's rebuttal didn't adequately respond to the accusations? Do allegations equal evidence? Should foreign governments make international development and foreign policy decisions based on media interpretations of a situation and domestic politics? And finally, is tied aid a respectful way to engage with development partners?

Rwanda is unique. It's a country that has risen from the ashes of genocide to become a success story. Against all the odds. It's a country where young people have the chance to hold their leaders to account, face to face. It's a country where personal dignity has allowed millions to reclaim their lives from the trap of poverty and rid their lives of violence. It's a country where the air is so thick with opportunity you can feel it. 

Before judging Rwanda, and it's President, take some time to reflect on the lens that you see the world through. It is often our personal biases that cloud our views. That was definitely the case before I was exposed the reality of life in this part of the world and the factors that have shaped it. And one thing I've learnt is to be sure to reserve judgement before taking in all the facts. It's easy to get caught up in media hype but it's much harder to get to the heart of the matter. And that's what we should all be aiming for.