5 lessons the world can learn from Rwanda's national Q&A forum

Now in its twelfth year, Rwanda's national dialogue council is one of the highlights of the civic calendar. The event brings together leaders from a broad cross-section of society including government, civil society, the private sector and international bodies. The idea is simple - get everyone with major decision making power in a room together and give the public the chance to ask them whatever they want. Questions range from highly personal ones about social security benefits to national fiscal policy to the artificial insemination of pigs. It seems nothing is off limits.

A man asks a question at the 2012 dialogue council

The two day question and answer session is chaired by Rwanda's president, Paul Kagame, who had this to say in his opening speech at last year's event:

"This dialogue is not as peaceful as one might think; having this dialogue is like launching a war and calling people to join in. It’s a war to fight against poverty, diseases, hunger; a war for development. It’s not a simple thing."

Hardly the language you would expect to hear about an event with the stated purpose of discussing 'national unity'. But this forthright approach is what makes Umushyikirano (the local name meaning 'to negotiate') such a good example of democracy in action. At last year's event I saw ministers being grilled by ordinary Rwandans who had their calls piped over the parliament speakers. I saw the President calling on members of the private sector to explain why their businesses weren't supporting local farmers and the head of the country's electricity provider being told to remove the monthly tariff on home meters (which has since been done).

With this year's dialogue beginning today I thought it timely to write about five lessons the world can learn from Umushyikirano:

1. Create a space for open and honest conversations between leaders and citizens

Rwanda's dialogue council gives ordinary citizens the chance to ask their leaders questions and hold them accountable. At last year's event a man called in and asked the President why the road he promised hadn't yet been built. In another case, a farmer sent a text asking why the local milk processing plant wouldn't purchase his product for a decent price. The head of the country's largest dairy company and the minister for agriculture were forced to stand up and explain.

It might not be comfortable for those on the receiving end of the questions, but it's a genuine way for Rwandans to keep their leaders in check and hold them to their word. 

2. Make it easy for citizens to ask their leaders questions

In 2012 over 11,000 questions and comments were received at the event. That amounts to about 1000 questions an hour. Giving citizens the chance to contribute via phone, SMS and social media like Twitter means that a much broader cross section of the community can be involved. 

While not all questions are answered on the day, records of what was asked are kept and reviewed after the event. 

3. Bring all the decision makers together and there's nowhere to hide

When an entire country's leadership are in the same room together, everyone is responsible for solving the problem. Leaders aren't able to shift blame or put off dealing with the problem. They must confront it head on and fix it then and there or say exactly how they're going to do so and when.  

4. Make the Prime Minister responsible for implementing the decisions taken

One of the first items on the agenda is a report from the Prime Minister about the extent to which the previous year's decisions were implemented. The PM must detail the completion rate of each resolution and if some haven't been finished, explain why. This creates the perfect incentive for getting things done because there's no fun in telling your boss you haven't done your homework, especially in front of the whole country. 

5. Broadcast Q&A events live to the public

Rwanda's national dialogue is broadcast on radio (Rwandan's media of choice), TV, online streaming and through social networking sites like Twitter and Facebook. This gives Rwandans from all walks of life the chance to be part of the event. From Cyangugu to Chang Mai, Rwandans at home and abroad can follow the proceedings of Umushyikirano live.

By demonstrating that the country values fierce conversations, Rwanda is creating the space for debate, new ideas and progress based on what citizens want. And that's something all nations can aspire to. 

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You can watch the event live at www.umushyikirano.gov.rw. If you'd like to learn more, the Rwandapedia website has lots of great information and historical records about Umushyikirano. 

Kigali's Thrilling New Arts Space

Arriving at Inema Arts Centre, I encountered twenty young Rwandans learning the moves to Michael Jackson’s ‘Thriller’. Clearly this was no ordinary art gallery. The boys and girls were rehearsing an upcoming concert and had mastered the first two verses and chorus. In the soft light of Kigali’s setting sun, it was an unexpected sight.

Inema Arts Centre is the passion and purpose of two brothers, leading contemporary artists Emmanuel Nkuranga and Innocent Nkurunziza. Founded in 2012, Inema is a place of contagious positivity. While the focus is on providing a space for resident artists to share and develop their skills, Inema, meaning gift in Kinyarwanda, is much more. Emmanuel describes it as a place where everyone can share their creativity and passion. And today, according to the self-trained artist, a virtuous cycle of giving, loving and sharing has taken hold. From the moment you step inside the gallery space, there is no denying there’s something special at work.

Leading contemporary artists, Emmanuel Nkuranga and Innocent Nkurunziza

Emmanuel and his brother Innocent grew up in Uganda before their parents moved the family back to Rwanda in 1997. At just 11 years of age, Innocent was already a passionate artist and used crayons and brushes to recreate the world around him, often burning the crayons to make paint. Though his school never offered art classes, Innocent’s mother saw his potential and today he credits her with giving him the courage to pursue his passion. Four years later Innocent’s talent was given the chance to truly shine when London based artist George Hicks came to Rwanda to share his skills with budding artists. After only one month, 79 of the 80 students in the workshop had quit. Only Innocent remained. It wasn’t hard for Hicks to predict that the 15 year old would go on to achieve international acclaim.

For Emmanuel, passion for paint came a little later. As a keen sportsman, he was more likely to have a basketball than a paintbrush in his hands. But after the sudden death of their mother, Emmanuel took to painting as a kind of therapy and his talent didn’t go unnoticed for long. Of finding the power of art he says, “I didn’t know that art could heal me, that it could be an aspiration and that I could share my experiences, talent and resources to help others realise the amazing hidden talents they might have”. And that’s exactly what Emmanuel is doing today.

Innocent Nkurunziza at work in the Inema studio

Both brothers draw on the memory of their mother as inspiration for their art and their commitment to the centre. For Innocent, a promise made to paint her portrait spurred him to take on painting full time. For Emmanuel, the care and love his mother showed to children in their community, and at the school she founded with her husband, inspired him to set up a number of programs to help young people realise their potential. According to Emmanuel, she made everyone feel special and unique and he wants to do the same. Today Emmanuel’s dream of educating young people, showing them a brighter future and training them to be professional artists has become a reality.

One of just many at centre, Art with a Mission is a program run by Emmanuel and his team to train young Rwandans with limited resources on how to tap into their artistic skills. Now in its third year, artworks produced by the students are on display and sold at the Inema gallery to cover school fees and living costs. Plans are underway to expand the artistic medium to photography and theatre. The centre also hosts a workshop for local women who craft exquisite handicrafts and jewellery. Known as Nziza Artworks and founded by Innocent in 2010, the 16 women involved are creating a bright future for themselves and their families through first class art. Inema is also helping to keep Rwandan culture alive through its dance and drum troupe. Young people are trained to become ‘Intore’, learning the rich history of the famous performance style. The troupe travels the country with income generated helping to pay the performers’ school fees.

Emmanuel Nkuranga with students from Art with a Mission

Both brothers credit Rwanda’s culture and stunning landscape for inspiring their work. For Innocent, “the dynamic rhythm of nature, people, colours and texture are the basis from which my art is derived” while the country’s Akagera National Park is “where you see the real colour of the world”. For Emmanuel, “anything is art. It’s just how you interpret it - nature, people, movement - everything. Rwanda and its great weather put me to work”.

The two brothers and ten resident artists are winning over art lovers and critics at home and abroad. Exhibitions across the United States including in New York, Washington and San Francisco as well as in London, Germany, Sweden and Belgium have wowed crowds, and with good reason. The artwork produced at Inema is unique, intriguing and beautiful, capturing the spirit of Rwanda in a way that no words on a page or image on Facebook ever could. The centre hosts local and international exhibitions, the latest by US artist Renee Balfour, and a showcase of Inema artists is currently touring Kigali hotspots.

What strikes you as you soak in the artwork, from stunning portraits and painted motorbikes to metal sculptures and carved crocodiles, is that they’re clearly more than just colours on a canvas. The art represents a way of being and of being with others. It’s a powerful expression of how the world could be – one joined together in creativity, love and beauty.

Stunning artwork on display at Inema

Emmanuel and Innocent told me that their dream was simple - to find artists and work together. But what the brothers have built is something far greater. Inema is a gift to Rwanda and to art lovers the world over. So next time you’re in Kigali, head down to Inema Arts Centre in Kacyiru and see for yourself what’s got the art world talking, and maybe even a performance of Thriller. 

To learn more and be part of Kigali’s positive energy art scene, visit www.inemaartcentre.com or follow the centre on Twitter at @InemaArts.

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This piece originally appeared in the December - February edition of RwandAir's Inzozi magazine. Visit the Inzozi website or follow @Inzozi_rw for more stories. 

6 Questions About Rwanda's Election You Were Too Embarrassed To Ask

Rwanda goes to the polls today to elect new parliamentary representatives. Having just watched my own country elect a new parliament, I realised there was a lot I didn't know about how it works here in Rwanda. Here are some of the questions that, like me, you might have been too embarrassed to ask. 

Rwandans go to the polls today (Photo Credit: Kigali Wire)

1. How many Rwandans will vote in this election and what are they voting for?

According to the National Electoral Commission, 5,953,531 people are registered to vote. While voting is not compulsory in Rwanda a high turn-out is expected. A staggering 98.5% of eligible Rwandans voted at the last parliamentary elections in 2008. Rwandans are voting to elect 80 members to the Chamber of Deputies, the lower house of the country's parliament. The elections will be overseen by 1,236 observers and 72,000 polling officers.

2. Why does voting take place over three days?

Rwanda's elections take place from 16-18 September because not all members are elected in the same way. Thanks to rules designed to ensure diversity, there are four different ways for the 80 members in the Chamber of Deputies to be elected:

• 53 members are elected by all Rwandans in a general vote

• 24 are female members and elected by women committee and council members

• Two members are elected by National Youth Councils from across the country

• One member is elected by representatives from the National Council of People with Disabilities 

The general election of 53 members takes place today, September 16 , while the 24 female members will be elected tomorrow, September 17. The election of the youth and disability representatives will be done on September 18.

3. How many candidates are competing in the election?

There are 410 candidates vying for the 80 seats available in the Chamber of Deputies. 

4. What does the Chamber of Deputies do? 

The Chamber of Deputies has three main functions. They are:

1. To represent Rwandans
2. To pass legislation 
3. To scrutinize executive action

The chamber carries out these responsibilities through plenary sessions, committee meetings and by calling government representatives (including the Prime Minister and Cabinet Ministers) to give briefings on matters of concern. The chamber also analyses reports submitted by government institutions. The first thirty minutes of each parliamentary sitting day is set aside to hear complaints from Rwandans.

5. How many political parties are there in Rwanda and do they all have candidates running for parliament?

There are 11 political parties in Rwanda. They are:

1. Centrist Democratic Party (PDC)
2. Democratic Green Party of Rwanda (DGPR) 
3. Democratic Union of the People of Rwanda (UDPR) 
4. Ideal Democratic Party (PDI) 
5. Liberal Party (PL) 
6. Party for Progress and Concord (PPC)
7. Party for Solidarity and Progress (PSP) 
8. PS-Imberakuli 
9. Rwanda Patriotic Front (RPF-Inkotanyi) 
10. Rwanda Socialist Party (PSR) 
11. Social Democratic Party (PSD) 

The Democratic Green Party of Rwanda was registered in August 2013 but did not field candidates for the election. The previous parliament was controlled by a coalition led by the Rwanda Patriotic Front. For these elections that coalition is made up of the RPF, PDI, PPC, PSR and the PDC.

6. Who organises Rwanda's elections? 

The National Electoral Commission is responsible for organising the elections, including announcing candidates, voter registration, staffing polling stations and announcing election results, which by law they must do no later than September 25. This fact sheet from the commission has a lot of great information if you're like me and interested in learning more. 

Rwanda's Best Kept Secrets

The Musanze Caves are a spectacular sight

My favourite travel experiences involve discovering something new, especially when I’m among the first to do so. That’s why two recently opened attractions in Rwanda have quickly become my favourites. These hidden gems are enchanting, peaceful, spectacular and refreshing. The Musanze Caves and the Ruzizi Tented Lodge get my vote for Rwanda’s best kept secrets.

A short drive from Musanze, Rwanda’s gateway to the gorillas, I discovered caves formed millions of years ago in volcanic eruptions once commonplace. Stunning and mystical, the Musanze Caves are one of the country’s newest tourist destinations. There are 32 caves underneath the foothills of the Volcanoes National Park. Our guide Patience took us to one 15 minutes from the center of town.

Cave guide Patience

The first thing that strikes you is the size. Stepping into the cave felt like entering a cathedral. We learnt that the caves were once used by Rwandan kings as an Ikigega (store) for food and other supplies during times of war. And after putting on the jackets, boots and helmets with headlights (all provided), it became clear that the caves were not only rich in history, but also natural beauty.

You are immediately enveloped by a dense silence broken only by footsteps and drops of water hitting the rock floor below. But we were not alone. A glimpse high above revealed hundreds of bats hanging precariously from stunning rock formations. Perhaps startled by our presence, the sound of flapping wings echoed through the cave. It reminded me of a scene from the latest Batman movie and I half expected the Batmobile to show up with Christian Bale at the wheel. The cave we visited was easy to navigate with a well constructed path leading you up and over, around and down, and through to the other side.

I emerged in complete awe of the cave only to be blown away again. High above the exit the volcanic eruption has left a ring of rocks that vines, trees and flowers cling to, creating a veil through which you emerge from the darkness. It’s a sight too beautiful and magical to do justice with words. The Musanze Caves are a must visit on any itinerary.

Gilbert Rwabigwi and I after completing the journey

On the opposite side of the country, I encountered another well kept secret - the Ruzizi Tented Lodge at Akagera National Park. Opened just months ago, the lodge blends world class eco-tourism with first class luxury. Accommodating a maximum of 14 guests and hidden deep within the park, Ruzizi is my favourite weekend getaway in Rwanda.

Just two and a half hours drive from Kigali along well sign posted roads, and after paying a modest entrance fee at the visitor centre, we made our way down to the lodge. Set on the shores of Lake Ihema, Rwanda’s second largest, the lodge fits effortlessly into the natural environment (so much so that a tree goes through the reception and out via the ceiling).

From the moment we arrived I knew we were in for something special. Nothing says adventure quite like an electrified fence to keep the elephants out. Our host briefed us on a bad-tempered but well loved elephant named Mutware (meaning chief) who likes to check in at the lodge every now and then. We made our way to the open deck overlooking the lake for welcome drinks from where we spotted crocodiles, eagles catching fish and other magnificent bird life. Hippos and monkeys are also a common sight.

Monkeys relaxing on the lodge board walk

The design of the lodge is simple yet stunning. A central building comprises a dining room and a well stocked bar. Each luxury tent stands alone, accessible only via a boardwalk to minimise environmental impact and allow animals to reach the lake unhindered. The placement of each tent makes you feel like you are in the heart of the jungle. Nothing beats lying in bed with a good book as monkeys swing from tree to tree outside your window.

After dinner was announced, guests gathered at the large communal table and introductions between strangers soon became laughter among friends. For those unafraid of the dark, a night tour of the park is possible. But after seeing giraffe, zebra, baboon, impala, buffalo and a beautiful sampling of the 500 bird species who make the park home, I was happy to have waited until morning. Only Mutware the elephant remained elusive.

One of 60 majestic giraffe who call Akagera home. 

The Musanze Caves and the Ruzizi Tented Lodge are the new stars of Rwanda’s tourist offering. It’s what makes travel worthwhile - adventure, history, indulgence, beauty and relaxation. If I were you, I’d book a room at the lodge and a tour of the caves yesterday - before everyone else finds out just how special they are.

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This piece originally appeared in the September-November edition of RwandAir's Inzozi magazine. Visit their website to read more stories.

Tours of the Musanze caves last between 30 minutes and four hours. To find out more, contact Jean Aime Sibomana from the Rwanda Development Board at jeanaime.sibomana@rdb.rw or on +250 0788 506 216.

Ruzizi Tented Lodge is located in the Akagera National Park. Bookings can be made by calling +250 787 113 300 or by email at ruzizi@african-parks.org. You can visit the lodge’s website at www.ruzizilodge.com.

Hippos are a common sight at the Ruzizi Lodge

A rare sighting of the shy Roan Antelope

19 Years

April 7 marks 19 years since the Genocide against the Tutsi in Rwanda. During a period of 100 days more than one million women, children and men were slaughtered in the world's most brutal and efficient killing spree. 

Half a century of ethnic division, first propagated by European colonisers, saw Rwanda bereft of respect for life and human dignity. The country was torn apart from its core by the events of 1994, leaving virtually every social and political institution destroyed. 

To this day, many Rwandans have not been able to bury their loved ones and some who planned and carried out the genocide still walk freely on the streets of nations like France.

I've lived in Rwanda for just over a year now and I've seen the incredible strength and resilience of my friends and colleagues, many of whom lost brothers, sisters, mothers and fathers during the genocide. I don't know how they do it, and my respect for them cannot be measured, let alone described in words.

Rwanda today stands out as a development success story. Child mortality rates are approaching the global mean, primary and secondary education is virtually universal, more than 90% of people have health insurance and 56% of the country's parliamentarians are women (the highest in the world).

By no means is Rwanda perfect and much progress is still needed, but what I've witnessed is a sense of national unity that would have seemed beyond impossible in the days and months after the genocide. It's a unity not based on the 'us and them' paradigm, but on the desire to build a nation together - to reclaim the hope, opportunity, dignity and respect for life that was lost with each and every murder in 1994.

The genocide didn't affect me or my family and it probably didn't affect yours either, but it is our collective responsibility to make sure that the events of 1994 never happen anywhere ever again. Just as Rwandans stand together to mourn those that were lost, we too must stand together to fight racism, bigotry, homophobia, xenophobia and all forms of discrimination. We must stand against all those who wish to divide us.

Rwanda has taught me that a people united are capable of anything. And that gives me great hope for the future.