Gisenyi – Rwanda’s lakeside paradise

Nestled in Rwanda’s north is one of the country’s most popular tourist destinations. It is home to spectacular scenery, some of the best hotels in the country and Lake Kivu – the main attraction of this idyllic lakeside resort town that tens of thousands of visitors flock to every year. If you’re visiting Rwanda and want to explore the country’s beauty or simply want to take a relaxed weekend out of Kigali, Gisenyi is the place for you.

Located 160kms or three hours drive from Kigali, the journey to Gisenyi is an easy one that takes you along a winding road past rolling hills, corn fields and the famous road stop Urwibutso Enterprises. Whether you’re travelling by public bus or with your own car, it’s worth taking a break there. Sample some of the best brochettes in Rwanda, pick up Mandazi (local take on the donut) and even strawberry juice made from locally grown produce.

The road to Gisenyi also takes you past Musanze – the gateway to the gorillas. As the regional centre of Rwanda’s Northern Province, Musanze is a thriving hub of economic activity. The town is the perfect place to grab a bite to eat before continuing to Gisenyi. Volcana Lounge, located on the main road, has spectacular views out to the Volcanoes National Park and the best pizza in town.

After driving for one hour from Musanze, the glistening Lake Kivu reveals itself. At 2,700 square kilometres, the huge body of water certainly earns its place among Africa’s Great Lakes. Driving down into Gisenyi you will notice some of the more than 150 hotels and restaurants dotted along the lakeshore, from budget motels to luxury resorts. If you’re after an upmarket experience, look no further than the Serena Kivu. The hotel has its own private beach, a panoramic restaurant, indoor and beachside bars, a swimming pool and the ‘Maisha' Health Centre where you can indulge in spa treatments, boating, swimming, tennis, fishing, hiking and trekking. For those after something a little less extravagant but just as stylish, the Gorillas Lake Kivu is for you. This hotel has lake views and a terrific restaurant called Ubwato – the name given to the canoes used by local fisherman. Volleyball and badminton are also on offer for the active guest.

If you’re keen to stay away from the hustle and bustle of Gisenyi, a number of boutique resorts located a short drive from town will have you relaxed from the moment you arrive. Paradise Malahide and Inzu Lodge are two of the best small hotels in Gisenyi and offer excellent accommodation at a reasonable price.

Paradise Malahide is a favourite for Kigali residents wanting to take a weekend away to recharge, soak up some sun or indulge in the best Isambaza in Gisenyi. These small fish are caught by fishermen who go out every other evening and spend the night on the lake. If you’re by the shore at dusk, be sure to listen out for the fishermen singing. When the sun goes down, their lamps light up the lake like small fires dotted on the horizon. A twin room including breakfast at Paradise Malahide costs 45,000 francs (US $65).

Paradise Malahide on the shores of Lake Kivu

Another excellent option is Inzu Lodge. On offer is double and twin single tented accommodation for 25,000 francs per night (US $40). Alternatively, bringing your own tent will set you back 12,000 francs (US $20). The lodge is located on the hillside above the shore and has spectacular views all the way out to eastern Congo. Inzu Lodge also returns a percentage of their profits back to the local community.

Inzu Lodge (Photo: Marie-Noëlle DeVito)

A trip to Gisenyi would be incomplete without visiting Tam Tam Beach. Located on the road to the Bralirwa brewery, the beach hosts music parties and a number of boating activities. You can canoe, take a sail boat out or enjoy a ride on a Jet Ski. Prices range from 3,000-6,000 francs (US $5-10). Once you’ve exhausted yourself, the Tam Tam bar is a popular spot to relax for locals and tourists alike. For those more interested in seeing the lake from afar, a recently opened eco-walk provides unrivalled views of Gisenyi and neighbouring Goma – all the way out to the active Nyiragongo volcano in the DR Congo. The walk takes you along the side of the rehabilitated Mt Rubavu. Simply go to the main church in town where the walk starts, pay a small fee and enjoy this self guided stroll. Be on the lookout for local birds and wildlife.

After seeing the town from above, the main market is the perfect place to get to know Gisenyi, try local produce or have your own piece of clothing made. Seamstresses and tailors there still use old style Singer sewing machines. A custom made dress will set you back around 12,000 francs (US $20). If you’re not afraid to explore, a little known secret in Gisenyi is the natural hot springs dotted along the edge of Lake Kivu. Take the road past the brewery and follow it down to the lakeside. All locals known where they are so simply ask for the Amashasa.

After a busy few days exploring Gisenyi, it’s time to head back to Kigali. On your way back drop in to the famous KIAKA. This artisan cooperative produces some of the finest handicrafts and artwork in Rwanda and should not be missed. Located fifteen minutes out of Gisenyi, KIAKA sells handmade bowls, traditional Agaseke (peace baskets), hardware supplies and much more. Prices range from US $1 to $30.

Gisenyi is your perfect holiday destination. With numerous hotels offering high quality accommodation, world class restaurants and dozens of fun activities for the whole family, add this historical lakeside paradise to your itinerary when you next visit Rwanda.

Rwanda's Best Kept Secrets

The Musanze Caves are a spectacular sight

My favourite travel experiences involve discovering something new, especially when I’m among the first to do so. That’s why two recently opened attractions in Rwanda have quickly become my favourites. These hidden gems are enchanting, peaceful, spectacular and refreshing. The Musanze Caves and the Ruzizi Tented Lodge get my vote for Rwanda’s best kept secrets.

A short drive from Musanze, Rwanda’s gateway to the gorillas, I discovered caves formed millions of years ago in volcanic eruptions once commonplace. Stunning and mystical, the Musanze Caves are one of the country’s newest tourist destinations. There are 32 caves underneath the foothills of the Volcanoes National Park. Our guide Patience took us to one 15 minutes from the center of town.

Cave guide Patience

The first thing that strikes you is the size. Stepping into the cave felt like entering a cathedral. We learnt that the caves were once used by Rwandan kings as an Ikigega (store) for food and other supplies during times of war. And after putting on the jackets, boots and helmets with headlights (all provided), it became clear that the caves were not only rich in history, but also natural beauty.

You are immediately enveloped by a dense silence broken only by footsteps and drops of water hitting the rock floor below. But we were not alone. A glimpse high above revealed hundreds of bats hanging precariously from stunning rock formations. Perhaps startled by our presence, the sound of flapping wings echoed through the cave. It reminded me of a scene from the latest Batman movie and I half expected the Batmobile to show up with Christian Bale at the wheel. The cave we visited was easy to navigate with a well constructed path leading you up and over, around and down, and through to the other side.

I emerged in complete awe of the cave only to be blown away again. High above the exit the volcanic eruption has left a ring of rocks that vines, trees and flowers cling to, creating a veil through which you emerge from the darkness. It’s a sight too beautiful and magical to do justice with words. The Musanze Caves are a must visit on any itinerary.

Gilbert Rwabigwi and I after completing the journey

On the opposite side of the country, I encountered another well kept secret - the Ruzizi Tented Lodge at Akagera National Park. Opened just months ago, the lodge blends world class eco-tourism with first class luxury. Accommodating a maximum of 14 guests and hidden deep within the park, Ruzizi is my favourite weekend getaway in Rwanda.

Just two and a half hours drive from Kigali along well sign posted roads, and after paying a modest entrance fee at the visitor centre, we made our way down to the lodge. Set on the shores of Lake Ihema, Rwanda’s second largest, the lodge fits effortlessly into the natural environment (so much so that a tree goes through the reception and out via the ceiling).

From the moment we arrived I knew we were in for something special. Nothing says adventure quite like an electrified fence to keep the elephants out. Our host briefed us on a bad-tempered but well loved elephant named Mutware (meaning chief) who likes to check in at the lodge every now and then. We made our way to the open deck overlooking the lake for welcome drinks from where we spotted crocodiles, eagles catching fish and other magnificent bird life. Hippos and monkeys are also a common sight.

Monkeys relaxing on the lodge board walk

The design of the lodge is simple yet stunning. A central building comprises a dining room and a well stocked bar. Each luxury tent stands alone, accessible only via a boardwalk to minimise environmental impact and allow animals to reach the lake unhindered. The placement of each tent makes you feel like you are in the heart of the jungle. Nothing beats lying in bed with a good book as monkeys swing from tree to tree outside your window.

After dinner was announced, guests gathered at the large communal table and introductions between strangers soon became laughter among friends. For those unafraid of the dark, a night tour of the park is possible. But after seeing giraffe, zebra, baboon, impala, buffalo and a beautiful sampling of the 500 bird species who make the park home, I was happy to have waited until morning. Only Mutware the elephant remained elusive.

One of 60 majestic giraffe who call Akagera home. 

The Musanze Caves and the Ruzizi Tented Lodge are the new stars of Rwanda’s tourist offering. It’s what makes travel worthwhile - adventure, history, indulgence, beauty and relaxation. If I were you, I’d book a room at the lodge and a tour of the caves yesterday - before everyone else finds out just how special they are.

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This piece originally appeared in the September-November edition of RwandAir's Inzozi magazine. Visit their website to read more stories.

Tours of the Musanze caves last between 30 minutes and four hours. To find out more, contact Jean Aime Sibomana from the Rwanda Development Board at jeanaime.sibomana@rdb.rw or on +250 0788 506 216.

Ruzizi Tented Lodge is located in the Akagera National Park. Bookings can be made by calling +250 787 113 300 or by email at ruzizi@african-parks.org. You can visit the lodge’s website at www.ruzizilodge.com.

Hippos are a common sight at the Ruzizi Lodge

A rare sighting of the shy Roan Antelope

A Streetcar Named Dignity

Agaciro (udu-) /agacîiro/ 1. dignity, self-respect 

In the popular play A Streetcar Named Desire, Blanche DuBois boards a tram to escape her past. She has lost the family home, been fired from her job and tries desperately to conceal her alcohol addiction. Words like dignity and self-respect are not often used to describe the character of Blanche DuBois.

The tram Blanche rode takes its name from the street along which it ran. But this post isn't about a journey through the Bywater district in New Orleans. It's about a bus that runs from Musanze to Kigali. 

Two weeks ago I travelled from Rwanda's capital, Kigali, to the north east of the country. The entire stretch of road is paved, the scenery spectacular and the scale of terrace farming a feat of human perseverance. After two days of exploring Musanze, known as the Gateway to the Gorillas for the thousands of tourists who visit every year, I headed back to Kigali. I'd bought my ticket and only had to get on the correct bus. At 4:45pm, right on time, a bus pulled up. Its destination: Agaciro. 

I was a little puzzled. Having lived in Rwanda for just under a year, not once has anyone mentioned a place called Agaciro. After about 30 seconds the electronic sign above the windshield flickered. It now read Kigali. Not wanting to end up in the middle of nowhere, I asked the man directing traffic "Kuri Kigali?" "Yego" he answered. He looked down at my ticket. This bus was going to Kigali, he said, but it wasn't mine. He pointed to another bus across the parking lot and told me to get on there. 

During the ride home I realised why that bus had "Agaciro" as its destination. It hadn't meant a place or the name of a bus stop. It was referring to the direction the country has taken since 1994 and continues to strive towards today. The concept at the heart of Rwanda's rebirth: dignity and self-respect. 

The first time I came across the concept of Agaciro was while listening to a speech by Rwanda's President Paul Kagame. He said the word tries to capture the very essence of humanness. Speaking to university students at a commencement address in the United States, he said:

"Rwandans of your generation are more optimistic about their country than any before them. They are full of hope, full of pride. This is because they have grown up in a society that has restored the enduring spirit of agaciro."

In the western world, we don't often talk about the values that guide our behaviour towards each other and how we should hold ourselves. Sure, we talk of honesty and kindness, but these ideas are just that, ideas. They rarely unite a society in common purpose. In Rwanda, it's a different story. 

In 1994, Rwanda was the poorest country on the planet. More than one million Tutsi and moderate Hutu had been brutally murdered and the country's institutions almost entirely destroyed. In the late 1990s aid dependence stood at 85 percent. 

Just as there is no dignity in having to beg to survive, there is little dignity for a country to be so dependent on the goodwill of others. And it's this attitude that permeates Rwandan society today. It's been the guiding principle for Rwanda to reduce it's dependence on foreign aid, now at 41 percent. That might still seem high, but just two years ago it was at 50 percent. 

You might have read recently the some countries have suspended aid to Rwanda because of allegations that the country is backing a rebel group in the eastern Congo. When this first happened I was shocked at the reaction of some of my Rwandan friends. I had expected them to be just as appalled as I was. Instead, they said, "Good, they can keep their money. We shouldn't need it anyway. We can stand on our own two feet". 

I didn't understand it at the time, but this is exactly what Agaciro looks like in Rwandan society. My own country doesn't need aid (and doesn't get bossed around by donors), so why should theirs. This piece by Diana Mpyisi captures the sentiment well. 

In the final moments of A Streetcar Named Desire, Blanche says to the doctor who leads her away, "Whoever you are, I have always depended on the kindness of strangers."

There's still much more I have to learn about the concept of Agaciro and its role in Rwanda's rebirth, but I have no doubt that it won't be long before the country reaches its destination; not depending on the kindness of strangers and fully realising its dream of dignity and self-reliance. Just like the bus from Musanze.