Rwanda's rejuvenating rainforest

It doesn’t take you long to realise you’re somewhere special. As soon as you cross into Nyungwe National Park you’re transported into another world. A world where mountains merge with mist rising up from valleys, where families of monkeys swing from tree to tree and where the air is so clean you wish you could bottle it up and take it home. Nyungwe is without question one of the most unique places on the continent.

The park is the largest middle altitude rainforest in Africa at 1,019 square kilometres and with 13 primate species, 275 bird species and over 240 tree species including the famed Igishigishigi (tree fern), boasts one of the highest levels of biodiversity anywhere in the world. Only in Nyungwe can black and white Colobus monkeys can be observed in families of up to 400, ten times the number found elsewhere.

Exploring the beauty of the rainforest is easy with over 130 kilometres of walking trails that cater to all levels of fitness and give visitors the chance to get up close with the incredible animal life in the park. Walk with chimpanzees, spot white bearded mountain monkeys and search for bird life of unimaginable beauty. If you’re lucky, you may see the Great Blue Turaco jumping and flying from tree to tree high in the canopy or the elusive Owl-faced monkey.

One of the most popular trails is the Canopy Walk, taking hikers along the Igishigishigi track to a series of bridges suspended up to 70 metres above the rainforest floor. After a quick briefing from your guide at the Uwinka Visitor Centre, you set off into the forest. Be sure to have your camera ready for blue and mountain monkeys jumping about and squirrels darting from one branch to another. Three canopy bridges rise out of the forest, suspended from tall steel structures that could easily be mistaken for modern art. Your guide will reassure you that the 160 metre walk could be done by one hundred elephants, but the first few steps are always tentative. Ten metres in and your confidence will return. Take a deep breath, look around and marvel at the beauty of the rainforest canopy. You’ll hear a small creek below, see birds flying across the horizon and soon realise you have the best seat in the house to view the spectacle that is Nyungwe. This 2.1km round trip is rated as ‘Easy’ and is suitable for visitors of all ages.

Making our way across the famous canopy walk - 70 metres above the forest floor

Visitors wanting a slightly longer trek can set out from the Gisakura Tourist Information Centre and walk the Isumo trail to Nyungwe’s largest waterfall, Kamiranzovu. Meaning elephant swallower, the 17 meter fall takes its name from the nearby swamp where elephants would often get stuck. From a distance you can hear the faint roar, but when you get closer there’s no mistaking its power. You will be in awe of the beauty of the place, with spectacular wild flowers dotted along the path, frogs jumping across rocks and fine mist rising high into the valley past bat caves and hanging foliage. It’s a special place and you won’t find anywhere else like it. Just don’t be afraid to get a little wet from the waterfall’s powerful spray.

The Kamiranzovu waterfall is mother nature at her most powerful

For an incredible primate viewing experience, a visit to Cyamudongo forest and its large family of chimpanzees is a must. Because the chimps wake up for breakfast at around 4am, willing adventurers will also need to be out of bed early. Don’t forget your binoculars as the chimps like to climb high in the canopy and the Mona monkeys living alongside them can be shy. Proper hiking boots and pants and long sleeves are recommended as you might find yourself off the beaten track to find the best viewing position. The forest is located about an hour from Gisakura.

All walks in Nyungwe National Park are accompanied by knowledgeable guides who will tell you about the numerous plants along the track and help spot animals and birdlife. Walks must be pre-booked at a Tourist Information Centre. The closest centre to Nyungwe is located in Gisakura about ten minutes from the park entrance.

After returning from a long day of exploring, there’s nothing quite like sitting by the fire and watching the sun set over the rainforest as monkeys swing past and colourful birds fly overhead. If you’re after just that, Nyungwe Forest Lodge is the perfect place for you. Connect with nature, quieten the soul and rejuvenate at this five-star eco-resort nestled at the edge of the Nyungwe National Park. The multi-award winning lodge is Green Leaf accredited and sustainability and conservation are clear priorities. Its architecture will astound and have you relaxed the moment you walk in the door.

Nyungwe Forest Lodge is set in a working tea plantation on the edge of the rain forest

 

Your host will provide first class care throughout your stay, beginning with an explanation of all the lodge has to offer, from relaxing swims in the infinity pool to mountain biking through the tea plantation. For those wanting to take things a little slower and treat themselves or a loved one, the lodge’s African Spa provides the chance to luxuriate with a full range of treatments including massage, facial, pedicure and manicure. A gift shop has exquisite local handicrafts as well as books detailing the country’s history and culture. For those wanting to sample the local brew, a traditional tea tasting ceremony can be arranged with your host.

When you take the path down to your villa, the smell of the fresh rainforest air and tea combine in a feast for the senses. Rooms are expertly appointed with a blend of modern and traditional styling, creating your own little paradise you won’t want to leave. Relax on the balcony and watch monkeys swing by or indulge in a forest view bath. All meals are included in your stay and they will not disappoint. Fresh local produce joins with flavours from across the continent to create mouth-watering dishes. For any special requests, simply speak to the chef who can create a personalised delicacy for you. Dine by the fireplace or on the balcony. Just be sure to watch out for Colobus monkeys who like to make lunchtime visits to the edge of the forest. Whether for one night or many, the lodge will leave any discerning traveller wanting to return, again and again.

A spectacular infinity pool is the perfect place to relax

The beauty of the lodge is only rivalled by the rainforest itself and the animals that call it home. A visit to Nyungwe National Park is a must for your next trip to the land of a thousand hills. The park is located in Rwanda’s south west and RwandAir flies daily from Kigali to the nearby Kamembe Airport. Transfers from the airport to Nyungwe Forest Lodge can be arranged through local tour operators. Alternatively, the trip by car from Kigali takes approximately five hours. This is a good option for those wanting to visit the historical towns of Nyanza and Butare which host the Ancient History Museum and National Museum of Rwanda.

For more information about the lodge, visit www.nyungweforestlodge.com.

5 lessons the world can learn from Rwanda's national Q&A forum

Now in its twelfth year, Rwanda's national dialogue council is one of the highlights of the civic calendar. The event brings together leaders from a broad cross-section of society including government, civil society, the private sector and international bodies. The idea is simple - get everyone with major decision making power in a room together and give the public the chance to ask them whatever they want. Questions range from highly personal ones about social security benefits to national fiscal policy to the artificial insemination of pigs. It seems nothing is off limits.

A man asks a question at the 2012 dialogue council

The two day question and answer session is chaired by Rwanda's president, Paul Kagame, who had this to say in his opening speech at last year's event:

"This dialogue is not as peaceful as one might think; having this dialogue is like launching a war and calling people to join in. It’s a war to fight against poverty, diseases, hunger; a war for development. It’s not a simple thing."

Hardly the language you would expect to hear about an event with the stated purpose of discussing 'national unity'. But this forthright approach is what makes Umushyikirano (the local name meaning 'to negotiate') such a good example of democracy in action. At last year's event I saw ministers being grilled by ordinary Rwandans who had their calls piped over the parliament speakers. I saw the President calling on members of the private sector to explain why their businesses weren't supporting local farmers and the head of the country's electricity provider being told to remove the monthly tariff on home meters (which has since been done).

With this year's dialogue beginning today I thought it timely to write about five lessons the world can learn from Umushyikirano:

1. Create a space for open and honest conversations between leaders and citizens

Rwanda's dialogue council gives ordinary citizens the chance to ask their leaders questions and hold them accountable. At last year's event a man called in and asked the President why the road he promised hadn't yet been built. In another case, a farmer sent a text asking why the local milk processing plant wouldn't purchase his product for a decent price. The head of the country's largest dairy company and the minister for agriculture were forced to stand up and explain.

It might not be comfortable for those on the receiving end of the questions, but it's a genuine way for Rwandans to keep their leaders in check and hold them to their word. 

2. Make it easy for citizens to ask their leaders questions

In 2012 over 11,000 questions and comments were received at the event. That amounts to about 1000 questions an hour. Giving citizens the chance to contribute via phone, SMS and social media like Twitter means that a much broader cross section of the community can be involved. 

While not all questions are answered on the day, records of what was asked are kept and reviewed after the event. 

3. Bring all the decision makers together and there's nowhere to hide

When an entire country's leadership are in the same room together, everyone is responsible for solving the problem. Leaders aren't able to shift blame or put off dealing with the problem. They must confront it head on and fix it then and there or say exactly how they're going to do so and when.  

4. Make the Prime Minister responsible for implementing the decisions taken

One of the first items on the agenda is a report from the Prime Minister about the extent to which the previous year's decisions were implemented. The PM must detail the completion rate of each resolution and if some haven't been finished, explain why. This creates the perfect incentive for getting things done because there's no fun in telling your boss you haven't done your homework, especially in front of the whole country. 

5. Broadcast Q&A events live to the public

Rwanda's national dialogue is broadcast on radio (Rwandan's media of choice), TV, online streaming and through social networking sites like Twitter and Facebook. This gives Rwandans from all walks of life the chance to be part of the event. From Cyangugu to Chang Mai, Rwandans at home and abroad can follow the proceedings of Umushyikirano live.

By demonstrating that the country values fierce conversations, Rwanda is creating the space for debate, new ideas and progress based on what citizens want. And that's something all nations can aspire to. 

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You can watch the event live at www.umushyikirano.gov.rw. If you'd like to learn more, the Rwandapedia website has lots of great information and historical records about Umushyikirano. 

Kigali's Thrilling New Arts Space

Arriving at Inema Arts Centre, I encountered twenty young Rwandans learning the moves to Michael Jackson’s ‘Thriller’. Clearly this was no ordinary art gallery. The boys and girls were rehearsing an upcoming concert and had mastered the first two verses and chorus. In the soft light of Kigali’s setting sun, it was an unexpected sight.

Inema Arts Centre is the passion and purpose of two brothers, leading contemporary artists Emmanuel Nkuranga and Innocent Nkurunziza. Founded in 2012, Inema is a place of contagious positivity. While the focus is on providing a space for resident artists to share and develop their skills, Inema, meaning gift in Kinyarwanda, is much more. Emmanuel describes it as a place where everyone can share their creativity and passion. And today, according to the self-trained artist, a virtuous cycle of giving, loving and sharing has taken hold. From the moment you step inside the gallery space, there is no denying there’s something special at work.

Leading contemporary artists, Emmanuel Nkuranga and Innocent Nkurunziza

Emmanuel and his brother Innocent grew up in Uganda before their parents moved the family back to Rwanda in 1997. At just 11 years of age, Innocent was already a passionate artist and used crayons and brushes to recreate the world around him, often burning the crayons to make paint. Though his school never offered art classes, Innocent’s mother saw his potential and today he credits her with giving him the courage to pursue his passion. Four years later Innocent’s talent was given the chance to truly shine when London based artist George Hicks came to Rwanda to share his skills with budding artists. After only one month, 79 of the 80 students in the workshop had quit. Only Innocent remained. It wasn’t hard for Hicks to predict that the 15 year old would go on to achieve international acclaim.

For Emmanuel, passion for paint came a little later. As a keen sportsman, he was more likely to have a basketball than a paintbrush in his hands. But after the sudden death of their mother, Emmanuel took to painting as a kind of therapy and his talent didn’t go unnoticed for long. Of finding the power of art he says, “I didn’t know that art could heal me, that it could be an aspiration and that I could share my experiences, talent and resources to help others realise the amazing hidden talents they might have”. And that’s exactly what Emmanuel is doing today.

Innocent Nkurunziza at work in the Inema studio

Both brothers draw on the memory of their mother as inspiration for their art and their commitment to the centre. For Innocent, a promise made to paint her portrait spurred him to take on painting full time. For Emmanuel, the care and love his mother showed to children in their community, and at the school she founded with her husband, inspired him to set up a number of programs to help young people realise their potential. According to Emmanuel, she made everyone feel special and unique and he wants to do the same. Today Emmanuel’s dream of educating young people, showing them a brighter future and training them to be professional artists has become a reality.

One of just many at centre, Art with a Mission is a program run by Emmanuel and his team to train young Rwandans with limited resources on how to tap into their artistic skills. Now in its third year, artworks produced by the students are on display and sold at the Inema gallery to cover school fees and living costs. Plans are underway to expand the artistic medium to photography and theatre. The centre also hosts a workshop for local women who craft exquisite handicrafts and jewellery. Known as Nziza Artworks and founded by Innocent in 2010, the 16 women involved are creating a bright future for themselves and their families through first class art. Inema is also helping to keep Rwandan culture alive through its dance and drum troupe. Young people are trained to become ‘Intore’, learning the rich history of the famous performance style. The troupe travels the country with income generated helping to pay the performers’ school fees.

Emmanuel Nkuranga with students from Art with a Mission

Both brothers credit Rwanda’s culture and stunning landscape for inspiring their work. For Innocent, “the dynamic rhythm of nature, people, colours and texture are the basis from which my art is derived” while the country’s Akagera National Park is “where you see the real colour of the world”. For Emmanuel, “anything is art. It’s just how you interpret it - nature, people, movement - everything. Rwanda and its great weather put me to work”.

The two brothers and ten resident artists are winning over art lovers and critics at home and abroad. Exhibitions across the United States including in New York, Washington and San Francisco as well as in London, Germany, Sweden and Belgium have wowed crowds, and with good reason. The artwork produced at Inema is unique, intriguing and beautiful, capturing the spirit of Rwanda in a way that no words on a page or image on Facebook ever could. The centre hosts local and international exhibitions, the latest by US artist Renee Balfour, and a showcase of Inema artists is currently touring Kigali hotspots.

What strikes you as you soak in the artwork, from stunning portraits and painted motorbikes to metal sculptures and carved crocodiles, is that they’re clearly more than just colours on a canvas. The art represents a way of being and of being with others. It’s a powerful expression of how the world could be – one joined together in creativity, love and beauty.

Stunning artwork on display at Inema

Emmanuel and Innocent told me that their dream was simple - to find artists and work together. But what the brothers have built is something far greater. Inema is a gift to Rwanda and to art lovers the world over. So next time you’re in Kigali, head down to Inema Arts Centre in Kacyiru and see for yourself what’s got the art world talking, and maybe even a performance of Thriller. 

To learn more and be part of Kigali’s positive energy art scene, visit www.inemaartcentre.com or follow the centre on Twitter at @InemaArts.

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This piece originally appeared in the December - February edition of RwandAir's Inzozi magazine. Visit the Inzozi website or follow @Inzozi_rw for more stories. 

A Streetcar Named Dignity

Agaciro (udu-) /agacîiro/ 1. dignity, self-respect 

In the popular play A Streetcar Named Desire, Blanche DuBois boards a tram to escape her past. She has lost the family home, been fired from her job and tries desperately to conceal her alcohol addiction. Words like dignity and self-respect are not often used to describe the character of Blanche DuBois.

The tram Blanche rode takes its name from the street along which it ran. But this post isn't about a journey through the Bywater district in New Orleans. It's about a bus that runs from Musanze to Kigali. 

Two weeks ago I travelled from Rwanda's capital, Kigali, to the north east of the country. The entire stretch of road is paved, the scenery spectacular and the scale of terrace farming a feat of human perseverance. After two days of exploring Musanze, known as the Gateway to the Gorillas for the thousands of tourists who visit every year, I headed back to Kigali. I'd bought my ticket and only had to get on the correct bus. At 4:45pm, right on time, a bus pulled up. Its destination: Agaciro. 

I was a little puzzled. Having lived in Rwanda for just under a year, not once has anyone mentioned a place called Agaciro. After about 30 seconds the electronic sign above the windshield flickered. It now read Kigali. Not wanting to end up in the middle of nowhere, I asked the man directing traffic "Kuri Kigali?" "Yego" he answered. He looked down at my ticket. This bus was going to Kigali, he said, but it wasn't mine. He pointed to another bus across the parking lot and told me to get on there. 

During the ride home I realised why that bus had "Agaciro" as its destination. It hadn't meant a place or the name of a bus stop. It was referring to the direction the country has taken since 1994 and continues to strive towards today. The concept at the heart of Rwanda's rebirth: dignity and self-respect. 

The first time I came across the concept of Agaciro was while listening to a speech by Rwanda's President Paul Kagame. He said the word tries to capture the very essence of humanness. Speaking to university students at a commencement address in the United States, he said:

"Rwandans of your generation are more optimistic about their country than any before them. They are full of hope, full of pride. This is because they have grown up in a society that has restored the enduring spirit of agaciro."

In the western world, we don't often talk about the values that guide our behaviour towards each other and how we should hold ourselves. Sure, we talk of honesty and kindness, but these ideas are just that, ideas. They rarely unite a society in common purpose. In Rwanda, it's a different story. 

In 1994, Rwanda was the poorest country on the planet. More than one million Tutsi and moderate Hutu had been brutally murdered and the country's institutions almost entirely destroyed. In the late 1990s aid dependence stood at 85 percent. 

Just as there is no dignity in having to beg to survive, there is little dignity for a country to be so dependent on the goodwill of others. And it's this attitude that permeates Rwandan society today. It's been the guiding principle for Rwanda to reduce it's dependence on foreign aid, now at 41 percent. That might still seem high, but just two years ago it was at 50 percent. 

You might have read recently the some countries have suspended aid to Rwanda because of allegations that the country is backing a rebel group in the eastern Congo. When this first happened I was shocked at the reaction of some of my Rwandan friends. I had expected them to be just as appalled as I was. Instead, they said, "Good, they can keep their money. We shouldn't need it anyway. We can stand on our own two feet". 

I didn't understand it at the time, but this is exactly what Agaciro looks like in Rwandan society. My own country doesn't need aid (and doesn't get bossed around by donors), so why should theirs. This piece by Diana Mpyisi captures the sentiment well. 

In the final moments of A Streetcar Named Desire, Blanche says to the doctor who leads her away, "Whoever you are, I have always depended on the kindness of strangers."

There's still much more I have to learn about the concept of Agaciro and its role in Rwanda's rebirth, but I have no doubt that it won't be long before the country reaches its destination; not depending on the kindness of strangers and fully realising its dream of dignity and self-reliance. Just like the bus from Musanze.