Gisenyi – Rwanda’s lakeside paradise

Nestled in Rwanda’s north is one of the country’s most popular tourist destinations. It is home to spectacular scenery, some of the best hotels in the country and Lake Kivu – the main attraction of this idyllic lakeside resort town that tens of thousands of visitors flock to every year. If you’re visiting Rwanda and want to explore the country’s beauty or simply want to take a relaxed weekend out of Kigali, Gisenyi is the place for you.

Located 160kms or three hours drive from Kigali, the journey to Gisenyi is an easy one that takes you along a winding road past rolling hills, corn fields and the famous road stop Urwibutso Enterprises. Whether you’re travelling by public bus or with your own car, it’s worth taking a break there. Sample some of the best brochettes in Rwanda, pick up Mandazi (local take on the donut) and even strawberry juice made from locally grown produce.

The road to Gisenyi also takes you past Musanze – the gateway to the gorillas. As the regional centre of Rwanda’s Northern Province, Musanze is a thriving hub of economic activity. The town is the perfect place to grab a bite to eat before continuing to Gisenyi. Volcana Lounge, located on the main road, has spectacular views out to the Volcanoes National Park and the best pizza in town.

After driving for one hour from Musanze, the glistening Lake Kivu reveals itself. At 2,700 square kilometres, the huge body of water certainly earns its place among Africa’s Great Lakes. Driving down into Gisenyi you will notice some of the more than 150 hotels and restaurants dotted along the lakeshore, from budget motels to luxury resorts. If you’re after an upmarket experience, look no further than the Serena Kivu. The hotel has its own private beach, a panoramic restaurant, indoor and beachside bars, a swimming pool and the ‘Maisha' Health Centre where you can indulge in spa treatments, boating, swimming, tennis, fishing, hiking and trekking. For those after something a little less extravagant but just as stylish, the Gorillas Lake Kivu is for you. This hotel has lake views and a terrific restaurant called Ubwato – the name given to the canoes used by local fisherman. Volleyball and badminton are also on offer for the active guest.

If you’re keen to stay away from the hustle and bustle of Gisenyi, a number of boutique resorts located a short drive from town will have you relaxed from the moment you arrive. Paradise Malahide and Inzu Lodge are two of the best small hotels in Gisenyi and offer excellent accommodation at a reasonable price.

Paradise Malahide is a favourite for Kigali residents wanting to take a weekend away to recharge, soak up some sun or indulge in the best Isambaza in Gisenyi. These small fish are caught by fishermen who go out every other evening and spend the night on the lake. If you’re by the shore at dusk, be sure to listen out for the fishermen singing. When the sun goes down, their lamps light up the lake like small fires dotted on the horizon. A twin room including breakfast at Paradise Malahide costs 45,000 francs (US $65).

Paradise Malahide on the shores of Lake Kivu

Another excellent option is Inzu Lodge. On offer is double and twin single tented accommodation for 25,000 francs per night (US $40). Alternatively, bringing your own tent will set you back 12,000 francs (US $20). The lodge is located on the hillside above the shore and has spectacular views all the way out to eastern Congo. Inzu Lodge also returns a percentage of their profits back to the local community.

Inzu Lodge (Photo: Marie-Noëlle DeVito)

A trip to Gisenyi would be incomplete without visiting Tam Tam Beach. Located on the road to the Bralirwa brewery, the beach hosts music parties and a number of boating activities. You can canoe, take a sail boat out or enjoy a ride on a Jet Ski. Prices range from 3,000-6,000 francs (US $5-10). Once you’ve exhausted yourself, the Tam Tam bar is a popular spot to relax for locals and tourists alike. For those more interested in seeing the lake from afar, a recently opened eco-walk provides unrivalled views of Gisenyi and neighbouring Goma – all the way out to the active Nyiragongo volcano in the DR Congo. The walk takes you along the side of the rehabilitated Mt Rubavu. Simply go to the main church in town where the walk starts, pay a small fee and enjoy this self guided stroll. Be on the lookout for local birds and wildlife.

After seeing the town from above, the main market is the perfect place to get to know Gisenyi, try local produce or have your own piece of clothing made. Seamstresses and tailors there still use old style Singer sewing machines. A custom made dress will set you back around 12,000 francs (US $20). If you’re not afraid to explore, a little known secret in Gisenyi is the natural hot springs dotted along the edge of Lake Kivu. Take the road past the brewery and follow it down to the lakeside. All locals known where they are so simply ask for the Amashasa.

After a busy few days exploring Gisenyi, it’s time to head back to Kigali. On your way back drop in to the famous KIAKA. This artisan cooperative produces some of the finest handicrafts and artwork in Rwanda and should not be missed. Located fifteen minutes out of Gisenyi, KIAKA sells handmade bowls, traditional Agaseke (peace baskets), hardware supplies and much more. Prices range from US $1 to $30.

Gisenyi is your perfect holiday destination. With numerous hotels offering high quality accommodation, world class restaurants and dozens of fun activities for the whole family, add this historical lakeside paradise to your itinerary when you next visit Rwanda.

Rwanda's rejuvenating rainforest

It doesn’t take you long to realise you’re somewhere special. As soon as you cross into Nyungwe National Park you’re transported into another world. A world where mountains merge with mist rising up from valleys, where families of monkeys swing from tree to tree and where the air is so clean you wish you could bottle it up and take it home. Nyungwe is without question one of the most unique places on the continent.

The park is the largest middle altitude rainforest in Africa at 1,019 square kilometres and with 13 primate species, 275 bird species and over 240 tree species including the famed Igishigishigi (tree fern), boasts one of the highest levels of biodiversity anywhere in the world. Only in Nyungwe can black and white Colobus monkeys can be observed in families of up to 400, ten times the number found elsewhere.

Exploring the beauty of the rainforest is easy with over 130 kilometres of walking trails that cater to all levels of fitness and give visitors the chance to get up close with the incredible animal life in the park. Walk with chimpanzees, spot white bearded mountain monkeys and search for bird life of unimaginable beauty. If you’re lucky, you may see the Great Blue Turaco jumping and flying from tree to tree high in the canopy or the elusive Owl-faced monkey.

One of the most popular trails is the Canopy Walk, taking hikers along the Igishigishigi track to a series of bridges suspended up to 70 metres above the rainforest floor. After a quick briefing from your guide at the Uwinka Visitor Centre, you set off into the forest. Be sure to have your camera ready for blue and mountain monkeys jumping about and squirrels darting from one branch to another. Three canopy bridges rise out of the forest, suspended from tall steel structures that could easily be mistaken for modern art. Your guide will reassure you that the 160 metre walk could be done by one hundred elephants, but the first few steps are always tentative. Ten metres in and your confidence will return. Take a deep breath, look around and marvel at the beauty of the rainforest canopy. You’ll hear a small creek below, see birds flying across the horizon and soon realise you have the best seat in the house to view the spectacle that is Nyungwe. This 2.1km round trip is rated as ‘Easy’ and is suitable for visitors of all ages.

Making our way across the famous canopy walk - 70 metres above the forest floor

Visitors wanting a slightly longer trek can set out from the Gisakura Tourist Information Centre and walk the Isumo trail to Nyungwe’s largest waterfall, Kamiranzovu. Meaning elephant swallower, the 17 meter fall takes its name from the nearby swamp where elephants would often get stuck. From a distance you can hear the faint roar, but when you get closer there’s no mistaking its power. You will be in awe of the beauty of the place, with spectacular wild flowers dotted along the path, frogs jumping across rocks and fine mist rising high into the valley past bat caves and hanging foliage. It’s a special place and you won’t find anywhere else like it. Just don’t be afraid to get a little wet from the waterfall’s powerful spray.

The Kamiranzovu waterfall is mother nature at her most powerful

For an incredible primate viewing experience, a visit to Cyamudongo forest and its large family of chimpanzees is a must. Because the chimps wake up for breakfast at around 4am, willing adventurers will also need to be out of bed early. Don’t forget your binoculars as the chimps like to climb high in the canopy and the Mona monkeys living alongside them can be shy. Proper hiking boots and pants and long sleeves are recommended as you might find yourself off the beaten track to find the best viewing position. The forest is located about an hour from Gisakura.

All walks in Nyungwe National Park are accompanied by knowledgeable guides who will tell you about the numerous plants along the track and help spot animals and birdlife. Walks must be pre-booked at a Tourist Information Centre. The closest centre to Nyungwe is located in Gisakura about ten minutes from the park entrance.

After returning from a long day of exploring, there’s nothing quite like sitting by the fire and watching the sun set over the rainforest as monkeys swing past and colourful birds fly overhead. If you’re after just that, Nyungwe Forest Lodge is the perfect place for you. Connect with nature, quieten the soul and rejuvenate at this five-star eco-resort nestled at the edge of the Nyungwe National Park. The multi-award winning lodge is Green Leaf accredited and sustainability and conservation are clear priorities. Its architecture will astound and have you relaxed the moment you walk in the door.

Nyungwe Forest Lodge is set in a working tea plantation on the edge of the rain forest

 

Your host will provide first class care throughout your stay, beginning with an explanation of all the lodge has to offer, from relaxing swims in the infinity pool to mountain biking through the tea plantation. For those wanting to take things a little slower and treat themselves or a loved one, the lodge’s African Spa provides the chance to luxuriate with a full range of treatments including massage, facial, pedicure and manicure. A gift shop has exquisite local handicrafts as well as books detailing the country’s history and culture. For those wanting to sample the local brew, a traditional tea tasting ceremony can be arranged with your host.

When you take the path down to your villa, the smell of the fresh rainforest air and tea combine in a feast for the senses. Rooms are expertly appointed with a blend of modern and traditional styling, creating your own little paradise you won’t want to leave. Relax on the balcony and watch monkeys swing by or indulge in a forest view bath. All meals are included in your stay and they will not disappoint. Fresh local produce joins with flavours from across the continent to create mouth-watering dishes. For any special requests, simply speak to the chef who can create a personalised delicacy for you. Dine by the fireplace or on the balcony. Just be sure to watch out for Colobus monkeys who like to make lunchtime visits to the edge of the forest. Whether for one night or many, the lodge will leave any discerning traveller wanting to return, again and again.

A spectacular infinity pool is the perfect place to relax

The beauty of the lodge is only rivalled by the rainforest itself and the animals that call it home. A visit to Nyungwe National Park is a must for your next trip to the land of a thousand hills. The park is located in Rwanda’s south west and RwandAir flies daily from Kigali to the nearby Kamembe Airport. Transfers from the airport to Nyungwe Forest Lodge can be arranged through local tour operators. Alternatively, the trip by car from Kigali takes approximately five hours. This is a good option for those wanting to visit the historical towns of Nyanza and Butare which host the Ancient History Museum and National Museum of Rwanda.

For more information about the lodge, visit www.nyungweforestlodge.com.

Kigali's Thrilling New Arts Space

Arriving at Inema Arts Centre, I encountered twenty young Rwandans learning the moves to Michael Jackson’s ‘Thriller’. Clearly this was no ordinary art gallery. The boys and girls were rehearsing an upcoming concert and had mastered the first two verses and chorus. In the soft light of Kigali’s setting sun, it was an unexpected sight.

Inema Arts Centre is the passion and purpose of two brothers, leading contemporary artists Emmanuel Nkuranga and Innocent Nkurunziza. Founded in 2012, Inema is a place of contagious positivity. While the focus is on providing a space for resident artists to share and develop their skills, Inema, meaning gift in Kinyarwanda, is much more. Emmanuel describes it as a place where everyone can share their creativity and passion. And today, according to the self-trained artist, a virtuous cycle of giving, loving and sharing has taken hold. From the moment you step inside the gallery space, there is no denying there’s something special at work.

Leading contemporary artists, Emmanuel Nkuranga and Innocent Nkurunziza

Emmanuel and his brother Innocent grew up in Uganda before their parents moved the family back to Rwanda in 1997. At just 11 years of age, Innocent was already a passionate artist and used crayons and brushes to recreate the world around him, often burning the crayons to make paint. Though his school never offered art classes, Innocent’s mother saw his potential and today he credits her with giving him the courage to pursue his passion. Four years later Innocent’s talent was given the chance to truly shine when London based artist George Hicks came to Rwanda to share his skills with budding artists. After only one month, 79 of the 80 students in the workshop had quit. Only Innocent remained. It wasn’t hard for Hicks to predict that the 15 year old would go on to achieve international acclaim.

For Emmanuel, passion for paint came a little later. As a keen sportsman, he was more likely to have a basketball than a paintbrush in his hands. But after the sudden death of their mother, Emmanuel took to painting as a kind of therapy and his talent didn’t go unnoticed for long. Of finding the power of art he says, “I didn’t know that art could heal me, that it could be an aspiration and that I could share my experiences, talent and resources to help others realise the amazing hidden talents they might have”. And that’s exactly what Emmanuel is doing today.

Innocent Nkurunziza at work in the Inema studio

Both brothers draw on the memory of their mother as inspiration for their art and their commitment to the centre. For Innocent, a promise made to paint her portrait spurred him to take on painting full time. For Emmanuel, the care and love his mother showed to children in their community, and at the school she founded with her husband, inspired him to set up a number of programs to help young people realise their potential. According to Emmanuel, she made everyone feel special and unique and he wants to do the same. Today Emmanuel’s dream of educating young people, showing them a brighter future and training them to be professional artists has become a reality.

One of just many at centre, Art with a Mission is a program run by Emmanuel and his team to train young Rwandans with limited resources on how to tap into their artistic skills. Now in its third year, artworks produced by the students are on display and sold at the Inema gallery to cover school fees and living costs. Plans are underway to expand the artistic medium to photography and theatre. The centre also hosts a workshop for local women who craft exquisite handicrafts and jewellery. Known as Nziza Artworks and founded by Innocent in 2010, the 16 women involved are creating a bright future for themselves and their families through first class art. Inema is also helping to keep Rwandan culture alive through its dance and drum troupe. Young people are trained to become ‘Intore’, learning the rich history of the famous performance style. The troupe travels the country with income generated helping to pay the performers’ school fees.

Emmanuel Nkuranga with students from Art with a Mission

Both brothers credit Rwanda’s culture and stunning landscape for inspiring their work. For Innocent, “the dynamic rhythm of nature, people, colours and texture are the basis from which my art is derived” while the country’s Akagera National Park is “where you see the real colour of the world”. For Emmanuel, “anything is art. It’s just how you interpret it - nature, people, movement - everything. Rwanda and its great weather put me to work”.

The two brothers and ten resident artists are winning over art lovers and critics at home and abroad. Exhibitions across the United States including in New York, Washington and San Francisco as well as in London, Germany, Sweden and Belgium have wowed crowds, and with good reason. The artwork produced at Inema is unique, intriguing and beautiful, capturing the spirit of Rwanda in a way that no words on a page or image on Facebook ever could. The centre hosts local and international exhibitions, the latest by US artist Renee Balfour, and a showcase of Inema artists is currently touring Kigali hotspots.

What strikes you as you soak in the artwork, from stunning portraits and painted motorbikes to metal sculptures and carved crocodiles, is that they’re clearly more than just colours on a canvas. The art represents a way of being and of being with others. It’s a powerful expression of how the world could be – one joined together in creativity, love and beauty.

Stunning artwork on display at Inema

Emmanuel and Innocent told me that their dream was simple - to find artists and work together. But what the brothers have built is something far greater. Inema is a gift to Rwanda and to art lovers the world over. So next time you’re in Kigali, head down to Inema Arts Centre in Kacyiru and see for yourself what’s got the art world talking, and maybe even a performance of Thriller. 

To learn more and be part of Kigali’s positive energy art scene, visit www.inemaartcentre.com or follow the centre on Twitter at @InemaArts.

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This piece originally appeared in the December - February edition of RwandAir's Inzozi magazine. Visit the Inzozi website or follow @Inzozi_rw for more stories. 

Rwanda's Best Kept Secrets

The Musanze Caves are a spectacular sight

My favourite travel experiences involve discovering something new, especially when I’m among the first to do so. That’s why two recently opened attractions in Rwanda have quickly become my favourites. These hidden gems are enchanting, peaceful, spectacular and refreshing. The Musanze Caves and the Ruzizi Tented Lodge get my vote for Rwanda’s best kept secrets.

A short drive from Musanze, Rwanda’s gateway to the gorillas, I discovered caves formed millions of years ago in volcanic eruptions once commonplace. Stunning and mystical, the Musanze Caves are one of the country’s newest tourist destinations. There are 32 caves underneath the foothills of the Volcanoes National Park. Our guide Patience took us to one 15 minutes from the center of town.

Cave guide Patience

The first thing that strikes you is the size. Stepping into the cave felt like entering a cathedral. We learnt that the caves were once used by Rwandan kings as an Ikigega (store) for food and other supplies during times of war. And after putting on the jackets, boots and helmets with headlights (all provided), it became clear that the caves were not only rich in history, but also natural beauty.

You are immediately enveloped by a dense silence broken only by footsteps and drops of water hitting the rock floor below. But we were not alone. A glimpse high above revealed hundreds of bats hanging precariously from stunning rock formations. Perhaps startled by our presence, the sound of flapping wings echoed through the cave. It reminded me of a scene from the latest Batman movie and I half expected the Batmobile to show up with Christian Bale at the wheel. The cave we visited was easy to navigate with a well constructed path leading you up and over, around and down, and through to the other side.

I emerged in complete awe of the cave only to be blown away again. High above the exit the volcanic eruption has left a ring of rocks that vines, trees and flowers cling to, creating a veil through which you emerge from the darkness. It’s a sight too beautiful and magical to do justice with words. The Musanze Caves are a must visit on any itinerary.

Gilbert Rwabigwi and I after completing the journey

On the opposite side of the country, I encountered another well kept secret - the Ruzizi Tented Lodge at Akagera National Park. Opened just months ago, the lodge blends world class eco-tourism with first class luxury. Accommodating a maximum of 14 guests and hidden deep within the park, Ruzizi is my favourite weekend getaway in Rwanda.

Just two and a half hours drive from Kigali along well sign posted roads, and after paying a modest entrance fee at the visitor centre, we made our way down to the lodge. Set on the shores of Lake Ihema, Rwanda’s second largest, the lodge fits effortlessly into the natural environment (so much so that a tree goes through the reception and out via the ceiling).

From the moment we arrived I knew we were in for something special. Nothing says adventure quite like an electrified fence to keep the elephants out. Our host briefed us on a bad-tempered but well loved elephant named Mutware (meaning chief) who likes to check in at the lodge every now and then. We made our way to the open deck overlooking the lake for welcome drinks from where we spotted crocodiles, eagles catching fish and other magnificent bird life. Hippos and monkeys are also a common sight.

Monkeys relaxing on the lodge board walk

The design of the lodge is simple yet stunning. A central building comprises a dining room and a well stocked bar. Each luxury tent stands alone, accessible only via a boardwalk to minimise environmental impact and allow animals to reach the lake unhindered. The placement of each tent makes you feel like you are in the heart of the jungle. Nothing beats lying in bed with a good book as monkeys swing from tree to tree outside your window.

After dinner was announced, guests gathered at the large communal table and introductions between strangers soon became laughter among friends. For those unafraid of the dark, a night tour of the park is possible. But after seeing giraffe, zebra, baboon, impala, buffalo and a beautiful sampling of the 500 bird species who make the park home, I was happy to have waited until morning. Only Mutware the elephant remained elusive.

One of 60 majestic giraffe who call Akagera home. 

The Musanze Caves and the Ruzizi Tented Lodge are the new stars of Rwanda’s tourist offering. It’s what makes travel worthwhile - adventure, history, indulgence, beauty and relaxation. If I were you, I’d book a room at the lodge and a tour of the caves yesterday - before everyone else finds out just how special they are.

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This piece originally appeared in the September-November edition of RwandAir's Inzozi magazine. Visit their website to read more stories.

Tours of the Musanze caves last between 30 minutes and four hours. To find out more, contact Jean Aime Sibomana from the Rwanda Development Board at jeanaime.sibomana@rdb.rw or on +250 0788 506 216.

Ruzizi Tented Lodge is located in the Akagera National Park. Bookings can be made by calling +250 787 113 300 or by email at ruzizi@african-parks.org. You can visit the lodge’s website at www.ruzizilodge.com.

Hippos are a common sight at the Ruzizi Lodge

A rare sighting of the shy Roan Antelope